Carrier Oils

Choosing a carrier oil

A carrier oil is the plant or plant-derived lipid that makes up most of a face oil, a balm or the oil phase of an emulsion. It sets the skin feel, the absorption speed and much of the shelf life, so it deserves the same attention as the actives it carries. Formulators usually pick by three things: how the oil feels on skin, its fatty-acid profile, and how well it resists oxidation.

Skin feel and absorption

Light, fast-absorbing oils

Grape seed, camelina and other oils rich in linoleic acid feel light and sink in quickly. Squalane is a saturated hydrocarbon that feels dry and silky and is a favorite in face oils because it barely changes over time.

Richer, cushioning oils

Avocado, macadamia and meadowfoam feel fuller and suit night oils, balms and creams for dry skin. Cosmetic jojoba oil is technically a liquid wax ester; it feels smooth rather than greasy and is very stable.

Fatty acids and stability

Oils high in linoleic and alpha-linolenic acid, such as rosehip seed oil, flax and camelina, are prized for their profile but oxidize faster. Protect them with an oil-soluble antioxidant such as tocopherol, keep headspace low, use dark or opaque packaging and avoid heating them longer than needed. Oils high in oleic acid and wax esters, like jojoba, macadamia and meadowfoam, are more forgiving and help stretch the shelf life of a blend.

Refined or unrefined

Unrefined and virgin oils keep more of their natural color and scent; refined oils are paler, milder and more consistent from lot to lot. Unrefined grades suit natural-positioned face oils, while refined grades are easier in fragranced or color-sensitive products. Always check the CoA for the grade, acid value and peroxide value of your lot.

Using carrier oils in formulas

In anhydrous products such as face oils and balms, carrier oils can make up nearly the whole formula, with an antioxidant and any oil-soluble actives. In emulsions they form the oil phase together with emulsifiers and butters. Botanical CO2 extracts and oil-soluble actives from our actives catalog blend in easily. For water-based serums, pair an oil with hydrators such as Tamarind Seed Extract in a separate water phase.

Blending carrier oils

Most face oils combine two to four carrier oils so the blend balances feel and stability. A common approach pairs a stable, silky base such as squalane or jojoba with a smaller share of a richer or more delicate oil such as rosehip seed, then adds tocopherol. Butters such as babassu add body in balms. Test the blend for odor and color over several weeks at room temperature and 40 °C, and store finished oils away from light.

Buying carrier oils

Every oil comes with lot documentation. Orders ship from Florida, usually within 1 to 2 business days, and US shipping is free on orders of $50 or more. If you cannot find a specific oil, search the catalog by INCI or contact us for a quote.