Ceramide-3 in liposomes

Ceramide-3 in liposomes explained

Ceramide 3 is the older name of a skin lipid now usually called Ceramide NP. In pure form it is a waxy, high-melting solid that requires careful processing. In this product it is enclosed in liposomes, tiny vesicles made of phospholipids, which disperse in water. The result is a liquid concentrate that our product record lists as soluble in water and miscible with glycerin and propylene glycol. The exact INCI, ceramide content and phospholipid source are printed on the CoA for each lot.

Properties

Liposomal ceramides combine two benefits: the lipid itself, associated with a smooth, comfortable, well-moisturized look, and the phospholipid shell, which feels light and conditioning on the skin. The liquid can be added at low temperature, so it suits gels and serums where melting a wax is impossible. Products made with it feel soft rather than greasy, which suits daily face care and eye products.

Applications

Barrier serums, gel creams, light moisturizers, eye gels, hand creams, body lotions and after-sun gels are typical uses. Liposomal ceramides also work in leave-in hair care for a soft feel. They pair well with powdered Ceramide NP in richer creams, and with comforting actives such as IO Soothing Plant Active Liquid. Find more barrier ingredients in our cosmetic actives catalog.

How to use it

Add the liposomal liquid at cool-down, below 40 °C, with gentle mixing. Do not use high shear for long periods afterwards, as it can break the vesicles. Keep the pH in a mild range, roughly 5.0 to 7.0, and keep ethanol and strong surfactants low. Take the use level from the CoA for your lot.

Protecting the liposomes

Liposomes are delicate structures. Ethanol above modest levels, strong anionic surfactants, high electrolyte content and extreme pH all disturb them. Choose mild thickeners such as xanthan gum or hydroxyethylcellulose, add preservatives that are compatible with phospholipids and test the product at room and warm temperatures. A slight haze is normal in clear gels and indicates the liposomes are present. Stir the concentrate gently before weighing, because liposomal liquids can settle slightly during storage, and avoid pumping them through narrow, high-pressure lines in production, since strong mechanical stress can damage the vesicles.

Compatibility

The liquid is compatible with water, glycerin, propylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, niacinamide and peptides. It is less suitable for cleansers, high-alcohol toners and products with a very low pH. Avoid strong oxidizers. Check viscosity with carbomer gels, since some liposomal products contain salts.

Characteristics

Form: liquid liposomal concentrate. Active lipid: Ceramide 3, also named Ceramide NP. Solubility per our record: water; miscible with glycerin and propylene glycol. INCI and content: on the CoA. Addition point: cool-down.

Original recipe: barrier gel serum, 100 g

Phase A: distilled water 84.70 g, glycerin 4.00 g, panthenol 1.00 g, xanthan gum 0.30 g. Disperse the gum in the glycerin, add to the water and stir until smooth. Phase B below 40 °C: Ceramide-3 in liposomes 5.00 g, niacinamide 2.00 g dissolved in a little water, sodium hyaluronate 0.10 g predissolved, allantoin 0.20 g dissolved in warm water from phase A. Phase C: preservative 1.00 g, soothing botanical extract 1.70 g. Mix gently and adjust pH to about 5.8.

Record the lot number in your batch log so every production run can be traced back to its certificate of analysis. Retain a small sample of each lot for at least the shelf life of the finished product, since it makes later quality questions much easier to answer.

Storage

Keep the bottle closed in a cool place away from light. Do not freeze, as freezing can damage liposomes. Ships from Florida in milliliter packs.