OCEA CARE

OCEA CARE at a glance

OCEA CARE is a marine moisturizing active from France. Its INCI is Glycerin, Water, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Arginine. Laminaria saccharina, also called sugar kelp, is a brown seaweed that grows in the cold waters of the North Atlantic. The extract is combined with L-arginine, an amino acid. The supplier names four active parts: polysaccharides, proteins, arginine and the trace element boron. OCEA CARE is a yellow, water-soluble liquid preserved with Microcare SB and used at 1 to 5%.

A moisturizer, not an appearance-focused cosmetic active

The supplier makes an important point: OCEA CARE is a moisturizing and skin supporting active, not an appearance-focused cosmetic one. This is why it can be used in products for young and teenage skin, from about 13 to 14 years. It gives brands a marine active for the whole family and for young lines, where many strong actives are not suitable.

Sugar kelp and its compounds

Polysaccharides

Brown seaweeds are rich in polysaccharides such as alginates and laminarin. These large sugar molecules bind water and form a light, moisture holding film on the skin.

Proteins and arginine

Seaweed proteins add a smooth feel. Arginine is one of the amino acids of the skin's natural moisturizing factor and supports hydration.

Boron

The trace element boron is part of the mineral profile of the sea and rounds out the marine story.

What the supplier describes

The supplier lists support for the skin's own cell activity and the balance of its extracellular matrix, the network of proteins and sugars that holds water in the skin and keeps it smooth. In cosmetic terms, skin looks and feels better hydrated, smoother and more comfortable. In combination with other marine actives, OCEA CARE also fits body care for smoother looking skin.

Dosing

The range is 1 to 5%. The supplier notes that 2 to 3% is enough for full hydration in a cream. Higher levels suit intensive masks and body care.

How to formulate

Add OCEA CARE to the water phase or at cool-down, below 40 °C. It is water-soluble and mixes into creams, gels, serums and lotions. It has a slight marine odor that cannot be noticed in a finished cream. The supplier notes that it tolerates short temperature changes, which helps in production and transport. For a complete hydration cream, combine it with sodium PCA and panthenol. More marine actives are listed in the cosmetic actives section.

Product ideas

Daily moisturizers, teen skin care, light gels for young skin, marine day creams, hydrating masks, body lotions and family creams are the main concepts.

Sample recipe: marine moisturizing gel cream, 100 g

Distilled water 80.20 g, OCEA CARE 3.00 g, glycerin 3.00 g, sodium PCA 2.00 g, caprylic/capric triglyceride 5.00 g, sodium polyacrylate 1.00 g, squalane 3.00 g, panthenol 1.00 g, preservative 1.00 g, fragrance 0.30 g, citric acid solution 0.50 g. Disperse sodium polyacrylate in the water, add the oils with stirring to form a gel cream, add glycerin, sodium PCA, OCEA CARE, panthenol, the preservative and fragrance, and adjust to about pH 5.5.

Young skin lines

A young skin line needs gentle, simple formulas with a clear story. OCEA CARE gives the sea story and a moisturizing benefit at a modest dose, and it can be combined with light textures, mild cleansers and oil free gels. Avoid strong acids and retinoids in the same products.

Labeling

The INCI is short and easy to read: glycerin, water, sugar kelp extract and arginine. This suits natural and clean label lines.

Storage

Store in a cool place in a tightly closed container. It tolerates short temperature changes. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.