Softouch, light mattifying effect

Softouch at a glance

Softouch, light mattifying effect, is a boron nitride powder made in the USA. Its INCI is Boron Nitride. It is a white powder that does not dissolve in water but disperses evenly in oils, gels and emulsions. It is used at up to 3 to 10% of the finished product and should not be used undiluted. The supplier describes it as an ingredient that turns a powder or cream into an optical modifier.

What boron nitride is

Boron nitride is a mineral like compound of boron and nitrogen. Its hexagonal form has a flat, layered structure similar to graphite, which is why it is sometimes called white graphite. The thin plates slide over each other easily, which gives the powder an exceptional slip. In cosmetics, it is one of the most valued texture and soft focus powders, especially in premium makeup.

Slip and adhesion

The supplier highlights a unique combination: slip and affinity to the skin surface. Most slippery powders also fall off easily, and most adhesive powders feel dry. Boron nitride does both. It glides smoothly over the skin and then stays in place, which improves the wear of powders and foundations.

Optical effect

The flat plates scatter and reflect light softly. On the skin this gives a light glow in mineral makeup and a soft focus effect that helps fine lines and pores look less visible. At the same time it gives a light mattifying finish, so the skin looks fresh rather than shiny. The supplier links this to appearance-focused cosmetic, radiance and even tone claims, all through the optical effect.

How to formulate

In powders

Blend Softouch with the other dry ingredients, such as mica, talc alternatives, pigments and binders, and mill or mix well before pressing. At 5 to 10% it improves slip, payoff and adhesion.

In emulsions and gels

Disperse the powder in the oil phase or add it after emulsification with good mixing. At 3 to 5% it gives creams a silky, soft focus finish.

Partners

For a mattifying primer, combine it with bamboo silica. For mineral foundations, combine it with zinc oxide. More functional ingredients are listed in the cosmetic actives section.

Product ideas

The supplier lists creams, lotions, pressed and loose powders, eye shadows, blushes, foundations and lipsticks. Typical concepts are soft focus primers, setting powders, mineral foundations, silky blushes, eye shadows with good payoff, blurring day creams and creamy lipsticks.

Sample recipe: soft focus primer, 100 g

Distilled water 70.80 g, glycerin 3.00 g, glyceryl stearate citrate 3.00 g, cetearyl alcohol 1.50 g, caprylic/capric triglyceride 6.00 g, dimethicone 5.00 g, Softouch 5.00 g, bamboo silica 2.00 g, xanthan gum 0.30 g, panthenol 1.00 g, preservative 1.00 g, citric acid solution 1.40 g. Heat water and oil phases to 75 °C, emulsify, disperse Softouch and bamboo silica into the warm emulsion with good stirring and cool, add panthenol and the preservative below 40 °C, and adjust to about pH 5.5.

Lipsticks

In lipsticks, boron nitride improves glide and helps the color spread evenly. Disperse it in the hot wax and oil base together with the pigments.

Pressed powders

Pressed powders need good cohesion so the cake does not break. Boron nitride improves the compressibility and the feel of the cake surface, so the brush picks up color evenly. Combine it with a binder oil and test the drop resistance of the pressed pan.

Safety notes

Avoid contact with the eyes, follow the dose and do not use the powder undiluted.

Storage

Store in a dry, cool place in a closed pack. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.