PROTESOY

PROTESOY at a glance

PROTESOY is a soy protein powder made in the USA. Its INCI is Glycine Soja Protein. It is a light yellow, water-dispersible powder with 88.1% protein, 3.3% fat and less than 1% carbohydrates, plus the soy isoflavones genistin, daidzin and glycitin. The supplier calls it an excellent source of natural protein that contains all the essential amino acids cosmetic formulators needs.

Soy in skin and hair care

The soybean, Glycine max, is one of the richest plant sources of protein. Soy proteins have a long history in hair care, where they condition and strengthen the hair fiber, and in skin care, where they moisturize and smooth. Soy also contains isoflavones, plant compounds that are known in skin care for their role in mature skin care and firmness.

For skin

The supplier lists an appearance-focused cosmetic effect, help in preventing the look of dark spots and firmer, denser looking skin through support of the skin's own collagen. It replaces amino acids the skin has lost, helps wrinkles look less deep, improves the skin profile, gives deep moisture and smoothness and soothes skin that is stressed by UV light, the environment or dryness.

For hair

In hair care, PROTESOY strengthens, protects, restores and nourishes the hair. It improves shine and texture and supports strong roots. Protein films on the hair surface make it feel thicker and smoother and help protect it during styling.

The supplier's dose table

Skin care, such as protective creams, lotions and nourishing products, uses 0.5 to 5%. Hair care, such as conditioners, shampoos, hair lotions and hair sprays, uses 1 to 10%. Body care such as shower gels uses 0.5 to 2%.

How to formulate

Disperse the powder in the water phase with good stirring. It is a dispersible protein, so a light haze is normal; it suits creams, lotions and opaque hair products better than crystal clear gels. Add it at cool-down or to the water phase before emulsifying at moderate heat. Keep the finished product at about pH 5 to 6.5. A hair mask can combine it with hydrolyzed keratin, and a firming cream can add adenosine. More protein actives are listed in the cosmetic actives section.

Product ideas

The supplier lists care for the body, hands, hair, face and neck, moisturizers, UV protection products for skin and hair, after sun products, hair conditioners, hair dyes, curling and styling products, shampoos and makeup. Typical concepts are firming neck creams, protein hair masks, strengthening shampoos and after sun lotions.

Sample recipe: protein appearance support hair mask, 100 g

Distilled water 77.00 g, cetearyl alcohol 6.00 g, behentrimonium chloride 2.50 g, caprylic/capric triglyceride 3.00 g, glycerin 2.00 g, PROTESOY 5.00 g, hydrolyzed keratin 1.50 g, panthenol 1.00 g, preservative 1.00 g, fragrance 0.50 g, lactic acid solution 0.50 g. Disperse PROTESOY in part of the water, heat the rest of the water and the oil phase to 75 °C, emulsify and cool, add the protein dispersion, keratin, panthenol, the preservative and fragrance below 40 °C, and adjust to about pH 4.5.

Hair color and styling

The supplier lists hair dyes, curling and styling products. Proteins help protect the hair fiber during chemical services and add body to styling products.

Safety notes

The supplier asks for a sensitivity test of the finished product, for example on the inner elbow. Soy is an allergen for some people, so declare it where required.

Storage

Store in a cool, dark place in a tightly closed container. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.