Hydrolyzed Keratin

Hydrolyzed Keratin for hair care

Hydrolyzed Keratin is a water-soluble protein hydrolysate supplied as a light yellow to amber liquid by a French producer. The INCI is simply Hydrolyzed Keratin, and the use level is 3 to 5% of the finished formula. Hair care is its first home, with nail and hand care close behind. The smallest pack is 0.33 oz (10 mL).

Why hydrolysis matters

Keratin is the main protein of the hair shaft, but in its native form it is insoluble and far too large to work in a cosmetic. Hydrolysis cuts the chains into peptides and free amino acids that dissolve in water. These fragments carry charged and water-binding groups, so they settle on the cuticle, smooth lifted scales and hold moisture at the surface. Hair combs more easily, feels softer and looks glossier, and damaged or colored hair shows the difference most clearly.

Dose and process

A daily shampoo or light conditioner can sit at 3%, while an intensive mask, a leave-in spray or an ends fluid can use the full 5%. Add the liquid to the water phase of a cold-mixed product, or to a hot emulsion only after it has cooled to about 40 °C. Long heating can darken protein hydrolysates and strengthen their odor, so late addition is the safer route. Keep the finished pH in the mild range usual for hair products.

Beyond hair

Nail conditioners and hand creams can use the same protein for a smoother, cared-for feel.

Partners

Combine it with the cationic keratin protein liquid for stronger conditioning or with silk amino acids liquid for extra softness. The Genamin KDMP conditioner gives a creamy base for masks. Other proteins are listed in our hydrolysates section.