Polydeoxyribonucleotide

Polydeoxyribonucleotide at a glance

Polydeoxyribonucleotide, best known as PDRN, is a biomimetic appearance-focused cosmetic active from South Korea. Its INCI is Polydeoxyribonucleotide. The supplier also lists it as sodium DNA and polydeoxyribonucleic acid sodium salt. It is a colorless, clear liquid with a pH of 5.0 to 7.0, fully water-soluble and added to the cool phase. Use levels range widely, from 0.1% in everyday cosmetics up to 10% in boosters and concentrated products.

What PDRN is

PDRN is a mix of DNA fragments of different lengths. In Korea it first became known in professional aesthetics, where it is used in clinics around skin procedures. From there it moved into skin care, and PDRN serums, creams and masks are now one of the biggest K-beauty trends worldwide. The word biomimetic means that the active imitates substances the body itself knows and uses, which is part of its appeal.

What the supplier describes

The supplier lists support for cell renewal and the skin's own collagen, faster leave-on cosmetic use of the skin's look and comfort, soothing of irritation, better skin nourishment, fewer visible wrinkles, support after microneedling, laser care and peels, and help in restoring the barrier function. In cosmetic claims, this means firmer, smoother, more elastic looking skin, fewer visible lines and a calm, comfortable feel.

Dosing by product

Everyday creams, lotions and serums use 0.1 to 2%. Boosters, ampoules and cosmeceutical concentrates use 1 to 10%. Scalp care uses 0.5 to 5%. The supplier also allows up to 10% in comfort creams after procedures and in intimate care products.

How to formulate

Add PDRN to the cool phase, below 40 °C, after the base is made. It is fully water-soluble and compatible with water phases, serums and gels. Keep the finished product between pH 5.0 and 7.0. Avoid strong acids and long heat. PDRN boosters often combine it with hyaluronic acid for hydration and adenosine for a smoothing message. More appearance-focused cosmetic actives are listed in the cosmetic actives section.

Product ideas

The supplier lists appearance-focused cosmetic and restorative cosmetics, serums, boosters and concentrates, products for use after skin procedures, creams for skin prone to redness, masks for mature and sensitive skin, products for the look of stretch marks and uneven pigmentation, men's care and scalp care.

Sample recipe: PDRN booster serum, 100 g

Distilled water 84.80 g, Polydeoxyribonucleotide 3.00 g, glycerin 3.00 g, propanediol 3.00 g, hyaluronic acid solution 4.00 g, adenosine 0.10 g, hydroxyethylcellulose 0.50 g, panthenol 0.50 g, preservative 1.00 g, citric acid solution 0.10 g. Disperse the cellulose in the water, add glycerin, propanediol, adenosine and panthenol, cool below 40 °C, add the hyaluronic acid solution, PDRN and the preservative, and adjust to about pH 6.

Scalp care

At 0.5 to 5% PDRN also fits scalp serums and tonics, where it supports a healthy looking, comfortable scalp. Add it to a light, water based tonic at the end of the process.

Men's care

The supplier lists men's care among the uses. A light after shave fluid or a simple all in one gel with PDRN fits the growing interest of men in K-beauty routines.

Comfort care after procedures

After microneedling, peels or laser care the skin feels tight, warm and sensitive. A simple, fragrance free gel or cream with PDRN, panthenol and a soothing humectant gives comfort in the days afterwards. Keep these formulas short and gentle, without acids, retinoids or strong fragrance, and advise.

Storage

Store in a dry, cool room in a tightly closed container, protected from light. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.