Palmitoyl Dipeptide-52 Powder

What Palmitoyl Dipeptide-52 powder is

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-52 is a short synthetic lipopeptide. Its INCI definition describes the reaction product of palmitic acid with a synthetic dipeptide made of proline, so the sequence is written as Pal-Pro-Pro. The palmitoyl chain is a sixteen-carbon fatty acid tail that gives the small peptide a lipophilic character, and the molecular weight is 450.65 g/mol. This listing is the dry raw material, a white to off-white powder with an assay of at least 98% by HPLC, made in the United States and sold to cosmetic chemists, indie brands and laboratories who want to build their own hair and scalp products around this peptide instead of buying a ready diluted blend.

Why it is used in hair care

The grey strands brief

In hair care, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-52 is chosen for products that target the appearance of grey strands and a more even looking natural hair color. Published supplier material connects it with the hair bulb area and with antioxidant support around the follicle. Keep any message on the finished product cosmetic and tied to appearance, and base product claims on tests you run on your own finished product rather than on the raw material.

Why proline matters

Proline is the amino acid with a rigid ring in its backbone. Two prolines in a row give the peptide a fixed, angled shape, and that geometry is the reason this exact sequence is used. A more flexible residue would not give the same structure, so the peptide should not be treated as interchangeable with other palmitoyl peptides.

Where it sits in our range

You will find it with the dry actives in our peptide powders section. Many hair and scalp concepts pair it with other powders from the same shelf, for example Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1 powder for a fuller-looking hair story or Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 powder for brow and lash products. If you prefer a liquid that is already dissolved, the wheat peptide ferment Biovolume 128 is a water-based option for volumizing hair products.

Working with the powder

Weighing and premixing

The use level for the pure powder in a finished product is 0.001 to 0.05%, which is 10 to 500 ppm, so weigh this material on a balance that reads to the milligram and work with small, clean tools. The powder is lipophilic and does not dissolve in plain water. Pre-disperse it in a solubilizer such as Polysorbate 20 first, stir until the premix looks uniform, then bring that premix into the batch.

Temperature and pH

Add the premix during cool-down, once the batch is below 40 °C, and stir gently until it is fully dispersed. The peptide is stable between pH 4.5 and 7.5, so set the final pH of the product inside that window. Avoid long exposure to heat and strong oxidizers. Leave-on products such as scalp serums, hair tonics and light lotions give the peptide the longest contact with the scalp, while rinse-off products such as shampoos and conditioners can carry it as a supporting active.

Product ideas

Typical vehicles are leave-on scalp serums, root sprays, hair tonics, light scalp lotions and conditioning masks aimed at people who notice grey strands and want a more even looking hair color. Beard serums and brow care can follow the same logic. Pair it with antioxidants, panthenol and humectants, and add each active separately so you can check clarity, odor and viscosity after every addition.

Example scalp serum in grams

For a 100 g test batch of a clear scalp serum at 0.02% peptide, weigh 0.02 g of Palmitoyl Dipeptide-52 powder and pre-disperse it in 2.00 g of Polysorbate 20. Separately combine 89.88 g of distilled water, 3.00 g of glycerin, 3.00 g of propanediol, 1.00 g of panthenol and 0.10 g of disodium EDTA. Below 40 °C add the peptide premix, then 1.00 g of a broad-spectrum preservative suitable for leave-on products, and adjust the pH to about 5.5. To test the upper end of the range, raise the powder to 0.05 g and take the extra 0.03 g out of the water.

Characteristics

INCI: Palmitoyl Dipeptide-52. CAS: 63721-19-7. Sequence: Pal-Pro-Pro. Molecular weight: 450.65 g/mol. Appearance: white to off-white powder. Assay: 98% or higher by HPLC. Solubility: lipophilic, pre-disperse with a solubilizer such as Polysorbate 20. Stable pH: 4.5 to 7.5. Use level of the pure powder in a finished product: 0.001 to 0.05% (10 to 500 ppm). Country of origin: United States. Packs: 1 g, 5 g and 10 g. The CoA, SDS and TDS for lot BLP-PD52-260918-P can be downloaded in the Documents block below.

Storage and handling

Keep the jar sealed and dry at 2 to 8 °C, protected from light, and let it reach room temperature before opening so moisture does not condense on the powder. Reseal it quickly, use dry spatulas and do not return unused material to the jar. Shelf life is 24 months in the closed original pack. Run a stability check on your finished product at room temperature, at 40 °C and in a fridge for several weeks before launch. This is a raw material for cosmetic product development, not a finished consumer product. It ships from Florida, usually within 1 to 2 business days, in the pack sizes shown above, and US shipping is free on orders of $50 or more.