ABIL EM 90

ABIL EM 90 at a glance

ABIL EM 90 is a liquid silicone emulsifier with the INCI Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone. It comes from Germany as a clear liquid with a yellow to amber color. Its job is to build water-in-oil emulsions, often written W/O. In this emulsion type the oil is the outer, continuous phase and the water is held inside as fine droplets. The supplier gives a use level of 1.5 to 2.5% of the finished product. It dissolves in oils and mixes with cold water and lower alcohols.

Why water-in-oil

Most creams on the market are oil-in-water emulsions: light, quick to absorb and easy to wash off. Water-in-oil emulsions feel different. Because the oil is outside, they spread with a cushioned, protective film, resist water and sweat and leave the skin feeling supple for longer. This makes them the classic choice for night creams, creams for cold and windy weather, baby barrier creams, long wear foundations and water resistant after-sun care. ABIL EM 90 makes this emulsion type accessible, because its silicone backbone gives stable, fine droplets with relatively little emulsifier.

How the molecule works

The molecule combines a silicone chain with a cetyl group, which anchors it in the oil phase, and short polyether chains, which reach into the water droplets. This balance favors water droplets inside oil. The silicone part also gives a light, non greasy feel, so a W/O cream made with it feels less heavy than traditional wax based versions.

How to formulate

Phases

Dissolve ABIL EM 90 in the oil phase together with the oils, esters and any waxes. Prepare the water phase separately with glycerin and salts. Add the water phase very slowly to the oil phase while stirring, then homogenize. Slow addition is the key to small, even droplets.

Stabilizing the water phase

An electrolyte such as sodium chloride or magnesium sulfate, usually 0.5 to 1%, helps stabilize W/O emulsions. Glycerin in the water phase adds moisture and helps against freezing and thawing.

Oils and actives

A mix of light esters, a little silicone and plant oils gives a balanced feel. Water-soluble actives such as panthenol go into the water phase. An oil-soluble antioxidant such as vitamin E protects the oils. More functional ingredients are listed in the cosmetic actives section.

Product ideas

The supplier lists cosmetic milks, day and night creams, lotions, decorative cosmetics such as foundations, after-sun care and hair care. Typical concepts are rich night creams, winter protection creams, hand creams with a lasting film and water resistant sun lotions.

Sample recipe: water-in-oil night cream, 100 g

Oil phase: ABIL EM 90 2.50 g, caprylic/capric triglyceride 10.00 g, squalane 5.00 g, jojoba oil 4.00 g, dimethicone 2.00 g, beeswax 1.00 g, vitamin E 0.50 g. Water phase: distilled water 66.00 g, glycerin 6.00 g, sodium chloride 0.80 g, panthenol 1.00 g, preservative 1.00 g, fragrance 0.20 g. Melt the oil phase, cool to about 40 °C, add the water phase very slowly with stirring and homogenize.

Texture tips

The ratio of water to oil changes the feel. About 60 to 70% water gives a cream, higher water gives a lighter lotion. A small share of wax raises viscosity and stability. Homogenize briefly at the end, but avoid long high shear, which can heat and thin the emulsion.

Common problems and fixes

Water-in-oil emulsions are less forgiving than the usual creams, so a few habits help. If the emulsion separates after a day, the water phase was probably added too fast or the electrolyte was missing. If it feels too greasy, replace part of the plant oils with a light ester or a volatile silicone. If it thickens too much in the cold, reduce the wax. Always run a freeze and thaw test and a 45 °C stability test over several weeks before scaling up, and check the viscosity again after a month, because W/O systems can change slowly.

Storage

Store in a cool, dark place in a tightly closed container. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.