Abyssine

Abyssine at a glance

Abyssine is a marine ferment active from France. It is made by fermenting Alteromonas, a microorganism first found in the extreme environment of deep sea hydrothermal vents, and recovering the polysaccharide it produces. The INCI is Water, Butylene Glycol, Alteromonas Ferment Extract. The liquid is yellowish to beige with a neutral odor, dissolves in water and is used at 0.5 to 5% of the finished product. It is known in the industry as a survival soothing active, a name that describes both its origin and its use in products for sensitive skin.

From the deep sea to the jar

Hydrothermal vents are cracks in the ocean floor where hot, mineral rich water meets cold sea water under great pressure and without light. The microorganisms that live there protect themselves with a coat of polysaccharides, long sugar chains that shield the cell from stress. Biotechnology allows these organisms to be grown in fermentation tanks, so the ingredient is made without harvesting anything from the sea floor. The story is strong for marine and biotech skin care brands and is easy to explain on a pack.

What it does

Abyssine is used to make skin feel calmer and more comfortable. Products with it are designed for sensitive and reactive skin that reacts to cold, wind, shaving or harsh products. In cosmetic terms it helps reduce the look of redness, eases a feeling of tightness and supports a smooth, comfortable skin surface. These claims fit comfort creams, serums for sensitive skin, after-sun care and aftershave balms.

How to formulate

Dose

The supplier gives 0.5 to 5%. Light daily products and eye creams can use 0.5 to 2%. Intensive comfort serums and creams for very sensitive skin can use up to 5%.

Process and pH

Add the liquid to the water phase of a cold process gel, or to an emulsion at cool-down below 40 °C. It is compatible with a wide pH range used in skin care. Aim for a finished product pH of 5 to 6.5 for sensitive skin.

Partners

Soothing formulas usually build on several comfort ingredients. Bisabolol adds an oil-soluble soothing note, and allantoin supports a smooth skin feel. Other comfort and appearance support ingredients are grouped in the cosmetic actives section.

Product ideas

Comfort creams and serums for sensitive skin, after-sun gels and lotions, aftershave balms for men, eye contour gels, winter creams for skin exposed to cold and wind, and products used after professional facial procedures are the main uses. A minimal ingredient list with a strong marine active is a good fit for sensitive skin lines.

Sample recipe: comfort cream for sensitive skin, 100 g

Distilled water 70.60 g, glycerin 4.00 g, glyceryl stearate citrate 4.00 g, cetearyl alcohol 2.50 g, caprylic/capric triglyceride 8.00 g, squalane 4.00 g, xanthan gum 0.30 g, Abyssine 3.00 g, bisabolol 0.30 g, allantoin 0.30 g, preservative 1.00 g, sodium hydroxide solution 2.00 g. Heat water and oil phases to 75 °C with allantoin in water, emulsify, cool to 40 °C, add Abyssine, bisabolol and the preservative, and adjust to about pH 5.5.

Formulating for sensitive skin

Keep the formula short and gentle. Avoid high levels of fragrance, essential oils and strong surfactants. Choose a mild preservative system and test the finished product under dermatological control if you plan a sensitive skin claim.

Labeling and story

On the ingredient list the active appears as Water, Butylene Glycol and Alteromonas Ferment Extract. In marketing copy brands often call it a deep sea ferment or a marine biotech active. The fermentation origin is worth naming, because it shows that no sea floor was harvested and that the ingredient is made in a controlled process.

Storage

Store in a dry, cool room in a tightly closed container, protected from light. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.