IO Palm-Free Emulsifier Powder

This ingredient at a glance

IO Palm-Free Emulsifier Powder is a powder, white in color, that goes into the fat phase. The card lists it as a cosmetic ingredient. This ingredient is glyceryl stearate citrate, a mild emulsifier used to make oil-in-water creams and lotions. As the product name states, this grade is made without palm oil, which matters to brands that avoid palm-derived materials. Check the recommended level, pH range and any certification on the supplier data sheet and CoA.

Why glyceryl stearate citrate is popular

Many natural-style brands look for emulsifiers that are mild, free of ethoxylation and pleasant on skin. Glyceryl stearate citrate fits that brief. It forms soft, light emulsions that spread easily and leave a velvety finish. It also works well with plant oils and butters, which are central to natural skin care.

Product formats

Face creams

Light day creams and richer night creams can be built on this emulsifier with plant oils and humectants.

Body lotions

Fluid lotions with a fast-absorbing feel are a good match.

Hand creams

Combine it with butters and a fatty alcohol for a richer hand cream.

Baby and sensitive skin care

Mild emulsifiers are a common choice for gentle formulas. Keep the full formula simple and test it carefully.

Processing

Melt it into the oil phase with butters, oils and fatty alcohols. Heat the water phase separately to a similar temperature, then combine the phases while mixing with a homogenizer. Cool while stirring. A small amount of xanthan or another gum in the water phase helps stabilize thinner lotions. Check the final pH against the supplier range.

Good partners

Fatty alcohols and gums add body and stability. Plant oils such as oat seed oil and refined pistachio oil give a natural, nourishing feel. See more oils in the carrier oils catalog and functional ingredients in the actives catalog.

Testing

Run centrifuge and warm-cabinet tests, and check viscosity after one day and again after several weeks, since emulsions built on this type of emulsifier can thicken as they settle.

Claims

Texture and origin claims fit best: light, velvety texture; made with a palm oil free emulsifier.

Characteristics

Form: powder, white. Solubility: in the fat phase. Trade name chemistry: glyceryl stearate citrate. Grade: palm oil free, as named. Level, pH range and certification: supplier data sheet and CoA.

Original recipe: light daily lotion, 100 g

Distilled water 75.30 g, glycerin 4.00 g, xanthan gum 0.20 g, IO Palm-Free Emulsifier Powder 3.50 g, cetearyl alcohol 1.50 g, oat seed oil 6.00 g, caprylic capric triglyceride 6.00 g, tocopherol 0.50 g, phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin 1.00 g, panthenol 1.00 g, citric acid 1.00 g. Heat the oil phase with the emulsifier, heat the water phase with glycerin and xanthan, emulsify, cool and add panthenol and the preservative, then adjust the pH.

Palm oil free sourcing

Palm oil and its derivatives are common starting materials for emulsifiers. Brands that commit to avoiding palm need to check every ingredient, not just the oils. A palm oil free emulsifier closes an important gap in that list. Keep the supplier statement on file so the claim can be supported.

Adjusting the texture

Glyceryl stearate citrate on its own gives a fairly light emulsion. To move toward a richer cream, add a fatty alcohol such as cetearyl alcohol or a plant butter to the oil phase. To keep a lotion fluid, use a small amount of gum in the water phase instead. Change one element at a time and note the viscosity after a full day, because the structure keeps building for some hours after cooling.

Range ideas

A face cream, a body lotion and a hand cream can share the same emulsifier base for a consistent texture across the line.

Lot records

Keep each CoA with the batch file and note the lot used.

Storage

Store closed in a cool, dry place. Close the container after use.