Methionine

Methionine at a glance

Methionine is a sulfur containing amino acid with the INCI Methionine. It is one of the essential amino acids, which means the body cannot make it and must get it from food. The cosmetic grade comes from the USA as colorless crystals that dissolve in water. Like other sulfur amino acids it has a specific, slightly unpleasant odor. It is used at up to 2% of the finished product. Its main role in cosmetics is in hair and nail care, where it supports the strength and look of keratin.

Sulfur and keratin

Hair and nails are made of keratin, a protein that is unusually rich in sulfur. The sulfur atoms form bridges between protein chains, and these bridges give hair its strength and shape and nails their hardness. Methionine is one of the amino acids that bring sulfur into the body's protein building. In a cosmetic product, it adds a strengthening message to shampoos, masks and nail care. Hair looks stronger and fuller, and nails look harder and less brittle.

Skin care uses

The supplier also lists products for firmer looking skin and smaller looking pores, care for tired looking facial skin and products with an antioxidant message. Methionine is a natural antioxidant amino acid, and in skin care it supports a fresher, more toned look.

How to formulate

Dissolving

Dissolve the crystals in the water phase. It dissolves easily and does not need heat. In emulsions, add it to the water phase before emulsification or dissolve it in a little water at cool-down.

Odor

The sulfur odor is the main practical issue. At 0.5 to 1% it is mild and easy to cover with a fresh fragrance. At 2% choose a stronger fragrance or a masking agent. Test the smell of the finished product after a few days, because sulfur notes can develop over time.

Partners

For a strengthening hair line, methionine combines with biotin and with hydrolyzed keratin, the protein it helps to build. Find more hair and skin actives in the cosmetic actives section.

Product ideas

Strengthening shampoos, conditioners, balms, hair masks, scalp serums, nail strengthening serums and creams, toning face lotions, firming creams and refreshing masks for tired looking skin are the main uses.

Sample recipe: strengthening shampoo, 100 g

Distilled water 59.60 g, sodium laureth sulfate solution 25.00 g, cocamidopropyl betaine 8.00 g, glycerin 2.00 g, Methionine 1.00 g, hydrolyzed keratin 2.00 g, panthenol 0.50 g, sodium chloride 0.40 g, preservative 1.00 g, fragrance 0.50 g. Dissolve methionine in the water, add the surfactants and glycerin, then keratin, panthenol, the preservative and fragrance, adjust viscosity with sodium chloride and adjust the pH to about 5.5.

Labeling and claims

On the ingredient list it appears simply as Methionine. Claims should speak of stronger looking hair and nails, fuller looking hair, and firmer, fresher looking skin. Follow the dose and the purpose of the product, as the supplier advises.

Nail care

Nails grow slowly, so nail strengthening products need regular use over several weeks to show results. A nail serum with methionine, panthenol and a little glycerin, brushed on daily, is a simple and effective concept. Photos of the nail edge before and after six to eight weeks are a good way to show the effect.

Combining with proteins

Free methionine is small enough to enter the hair fiber, while proteins such as keratin hydrolysates coat it from the outside. Using both in one shampoo or mask gives a two level strengthening story.

Storage

Store in a dry, cool room in a tightly closed container, protected from light. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.