Phyllanthus Emblica

Phyllanthus Emblica at a glance

This Phyllanthus Emblica is a water-soluble fruit extract made in the USA. Its INCI is Water, Butylene Glycol, Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract. It is a yellow brown liquid with a characteristic odor, used at 1 to 2% of the finished product. The fruit is better known as amla or Indian gooseberry. The supplier lists two main fields: hair care, especially strengthening shampoos and products for curls, and face care with a brightening message.

Amla, the Indian gooseberry

Phyllanthus emblica is a tree native to India and Southeast Asia. Its round, pale green fruits are very sour and have a firm place in Indian tradition. Amla is one of the best known ingredients of traditional hair care: amla oils, powders and rinses have been used for generations for strong, shiny, dark looking hair. The fruit is naturally rich in vitamin C and in polyphenols, especially tannins, which give it its astringent taste and its antioxidant power.

For hair

Strength and shine

Tannins bind to the protein of the hair surface and give a firmer feel. Hair looks stronger, shinier and fuller, and the cuticle looks smoother.

Curls

The supplier lists conditioners, sprays, rinses and balms for the care of curls. Curly hair is often dry and prone to frizz, and an amla rinse or conditioner supports defined, shiny looking curls.

For the face

The supplier also lists brightening face care. Amla's vitamin C and polyphenols support a brighter, more even looking complexion and add antioxidant protection. In cleansers the extract adds a refreshing, toning note.

How to formulate

Add the extract to the water phase or at cool-down. It is water-soluble, so it suits clear shampoos and rinses as well as creams. Its yellow brown color gives a light tint, which fits the natural story. Keep the finished product at about pH 4.5 to 6. In a strengthening hair line, combine it with hydrolyzed keratin and panthenol. More hair and skin actives are listed in the cosmetic actives section.

Dosing

The supplier gives 1 to 2%. Shampoos and cleansers work well at 1%. Conditioners, masks, curl creams and brightening face products can use 2%.

Product ideas

Strengthening shampoos, amla conditioners, curl defining creams, leave-in curl sprays, herbal hair rinses, hair balms, brightening face creams, vitamin C style face toners and gentle face cleansers are the main concepts.

Sample recipe: amla strengthening shampoo, 100 g

Distilled water 61.10 g, sodium laureth sulfate solution 25.00 g, cocamidopropyl betaine 8.00 g, Phyllanthus Emblica 2.00 g, glycerin 1.50 g, panthenol 0.50 g, polyquaternium-10 0.20 g, sodium chloride 0.50 g, preservative 1.00 g, fragrance 0.20 g. Disperse polyquaternium-10 in the water, add the surfactants and glycerin, then the extract, panthenol, the preservative and fragrance, adjust viscosity with sodium chloride and the pH to about 5.5.

Ayurvedic story

Amla is one of the key fruits of Ayurveda, the traditional system of Indian wellness. Brands with an Ayurvedic or Indian inspired line can use the extract as a hero ingredient, together with other traditional plants, and tell the story of a fruit used for hair for centuries.

Curl care routines

Curl care routines often use several steps: a gentle shampoo, a rich conditioner, a leave-in cream and a light gel. The extract can appear in each step at 1 to 2%, which gives a coherent amla curl line.

Safety notes

Follow the dose and the purpose of the product, as the supplier advises.

Storage

Store in a dark, cool place in a tightly closed container. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.