LinoRet-AF Retinyl Linoleate in Squalane

What LinoRet-AF is

LinoRet-AF is an oil-soluble retinoid made by Barnet Products in the United States. It is based on Retinoid F technology: retinol is esterified with linoleic acid and supplied in squalane. In the skin the ester is broken down into retinol and linoleic acid, so one material brings two familiar actives. The goal is the smoothing and brightening of retinol with far less of the redness, flaking, burning and dryness that often come with it, together with much easier handling at the bench.

It sits with the retinoids in our cosmetic actives section. For a plant alternative with a different mechanism, compare it with bakuchiol. For an encapsulated form of retinol itself, see encapsulated retinol.

Composition and label INCI

The INCI is Squalane (and) Retinyl Linoleate. The CAS numbers are 111-01-3 for squalane and 631-89-0 for retinyl linoleate. It is a yellow to orange, clear liquid. The producer lists it as vegan, palm-free and Halal compliant, with an ISO natural origin rating, and reports compliance with the major retailer clean beauty standards.

Why it is easier to formulate

Pure retinol degrades with light, heat and air, so it usually needs dark processing, nitrogen blanketing and careful packaging. The producer reports that LinoRet-AF is far more stable and does not need these measures. It tolerates heat up to 80 °C for up to 5 hours, so it can go into the hot oil phase of an emulsion, although heat is not required.

How to use it

Add it to the oil phase. The recommended finished pH is below 6.0. Because retinoids increase sensitivity to sun, finished products should be labeled for evening use and paired with daytime sun protection.

Pairing ideas

LinoRet-AF blends easily with squalane, light esters and plant oils, and it emulsifies in any standard oil-in-water system. The producer highlights synergy with vitamin C, and an oil-soluble vitamin C ester in the same oil phase is a simple way to use it. Niacinamide and ceramides in the water phase help keep the skin comfortable during a retinoid routine.

Labeling notes

Check the rules of each market you sell in, and keep the INCI exactly as Squalane (and) Retinyl Linoleate on the ingredient list.

Bench example: overnight retinoid cream

This 100 g bench batch shows one way to use the material. For phase A, weigh 70.7 g distilled water, 4 g glycerin and 0.3 g xanthan gum. For phase B, weigh 8 g caprylic/capric triglyceride, 4 g cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate and 2 g cetyl alcohol. Heat both phases to 75 °C, combine and homogenize. Below 40 °C, add 5.75 g LinoRet-AF, 0.25 g tocopherol, 2 g niacinamide predissolved in 2 g water, and 1 g broad-spectrum preservative used at its supplier rate. Mix until uniform, adjust to pH 5.0 to 5.5 and fill into airless pumps.

Where it fits in a product line

LinoRet-AF fits night serums, retinoid creams, eye creams, facial oils and body products for rough texture. Its gentle profile makes it a good entry retinoid for first-time users and for sensitive skin lines.

Storage

Keep the container tightly closed in a cool place away from light. Close the pack quickly after each use. For cosmetic formulation use only.