Genamin KDMP

Genamin KDMP, behentrimonium chloride

Genamin KDMP is a cationic conditioning agent from Switzerland, supplied as white flakes or granules. Its INCI is Behentrimonium Chloride, also called behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, one of the classic building blocks of hair conditioners. The use level is 1 to 5% in conditioning products, and the supplier notes that it dissolves in oils and in water. The smallest pack is 10 g.

How it conditions

Hair carries a slight negative charge, especially when damaged. Behentrimonium chloride is positively charged, so it is drawn to the hair surface and forms a thin conditioning film. The supplier lists less static, easier combing, softer and more manageable hair, smoother looking ends and better uptake of other conditioning ingredients. It also helps build the creamy, rich texture consumers expect from a conditioner or mask.

Where it is used

Conditioners, balms and masks are the main formats, including balms for hair stressed by coloring and perming, and rich masks can use the upper end of the range. Leave-in lotions and sprays, styling gels and smoothing products use lower levels for slip and control. Perm fixing products are another traditional use.

Processing the flakes

Melt Genamin KDMP into the oil phase together with fatty alcohols such as cetearyl alcohol, heat both phases to about 70 to 75 °C and emulsify. Cationic conditioners form a stable cream structure with fatty alcohols, which gives the familiar thick conditioner texture.

Partners

Add proteins such as hydrolyzed keratin at cool-down for a strengthening story, or Heliogenol for color and after-sun care. More hair care ingredients are listed in our cosmetic actives section.