Amiporine

Amiporine at a glance

Amiporine is a pomegranate based moisturizing active. The fruit extract of Punica granatum is carried in glycerin, which gives the INCI Glycerin, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract. The liquid is yellow to yellow brown, dissolves in water and is used at 2 to 4% of the finished product. It is made in France. Its name hints at its role: it is designed to help water move through the skin and spread evenly, a concept similar to the water channels that the skin uses naturally. The supplier highlights that it suits all ages and that it works best in emulsions.

Moisture balance, not just moisture

Many humectants simply attract water to the surface. Amiporine is described by the supplier as an active that helps transport water and distribute it evenly in the different layers of the skin, limits water loss and supports the appearance support of the skin barrier. It also helps form and fix the hydrolipid film, the thin mix of water and lipids that protects the skin surface. Natural enzymes in the pomegranate extract give a gentle smoothing of dead cells. In cosmetic language this means skin that feels deeply hydrated, looks plumper and smoother and stays comfortable for longer.

Why emulsions work best

The supplier reports that Amiporine works better in cream emulsions than in serums. The reason is the hydrolipid film: oils and emulsifiers in a cream help hold the water that the active brings, so the moisture effect lasts longer. The supplier therefore recommends any product that contains oils and surfactants or emulsifiers, including shampoos and gels made with fatty thickeners, such as lecithin based or fatty chain polymer gels.

How to formulate

Add Amiporine to the water phase or to an emulsion at cool-down below 40 °C, at 2 to 4%. Keep the finished pH in a skin friendly range of about 5 to 6. For a complete barrier cream, combine it with lipids such as ceramides and with sodium PCA for a stronger natural moisturizing factor profile. Other moisturizing and barrier actives can be found in the cosmetic actives section.

Pomegranate as a cosmetic story

Pomegranate is one of the best known fruits in beauty marketing. It is rich in polyphenols and has a long cultural history as a symbol of life and abundance. Brands can use the fruit as the hero of a whole line, with a deep red color theme and a fresh, fruity fragrance.

Product ideas

Moisturizing day creams, rich night creams, barrier creams for dry skin, body lotions, hand creams, conditioning shampoos and hair masks are the main uses. Because there is no age limit, it also fits family care and gentle creams for young skin.

Sample recipe: pomegranate barrier cream, 100 g

Distilled water 69.50 g, glycerin 3.00 g, glyceryl stearate citrate 4.00 g, cetearyl alcohol 3.00 g, shea butter 5.00 g, caprylic/capric triglyceride 8.00 g, squalane 2.00 g, xanthan gum 0.30 g, Amiporine 4.00 g, preservative 1.00 g, fragrance 0.20 g. Heat water and oil phases to 75 °C, emulsify, cool to below 40 °C, add Amiporine, preservative and fragrance, and check that the pH is about 5.5.

Labeling

On the ingredient list the active appears as Glycerin and Punica Granatum Fruit Extract. In marketing copy, pomegranate moisture complex is a clear description.

Testing moisture claims

Corneometer readings after a few hours and after several days of use, together with a measurement of water loss from the skin, are the standard way to support hydration and barrier claims. A consumer panel that rates softness and comfort adds the sensory side.

Storage

Store in a dry, cool place at up to 25 °C, tightly closed. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.