AJIDEW ZN100

AJIDEW ZN100 at a glance

AJIDEW ZN100 is a zinc PCA powder from Japan. Its INCI is Zinc PCA, the zinc salt of L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid. It is a fine, white to cream powder that dissolves in water, used at 0.1 to 1% depending on the product. The supplier lists moisturizing, sebum control, care for oily, blemish prone skin and scalp and an appearance-focused cosmetic benefit among its roles.

Two parts, two jobs

PCA

Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, PCA for short, is one of the main parts of the skin's natural moisturizing factor. The skin makes it from the amino acid glutamic acid. It binds water and keeps the upper layer of the skin supple.

Zinc

Zinc is a trace element with a long history in care for oily skin. It helps balance sebum, gives the skin a fresher, cleaner look and supports a calm skin surface. In zinc PCA, zinc is bound to a natural skin molecule, which makes it gentle and easy to formulate.

What it does

Zinc PCA moisturizes the skin while it helps control sebum and shine. This combination is valuable for oily skin, which often lacks moisture even though it looks shiny. It supports a fresh, clean, balanced look of the skin and scalp and helps keep pores looking clear. In serums for mature skin it adds an appearance-focused cosmetic message.

The supplier's dose table

Foaming hair cleansers for a healthy looking scalp use 1%. Face and body cleansers use 0.75 to 1%. Mattifying makeup uses 0.2 to 0.4%. Deodorants, body powders and baby powders use 0.1 to 0.2%. Active serums for mature skin use 0.8 to 0.9%. Mattifying fluids and creams for skin with visible pores use 0.6%.

How to formulate

Dissolve the powder in the water phase. It dissolves easily and does not need heat. Keep the finished product at about pH 5 to 6.5. In emulsions, add it to the water phase before emulsifying or dissolve it in a little water at cool-down. A balancing serum can combine it with niacinamide, and a moisturizing gel can add sodium PCA for a complete PCA story. More oily skin actives are listed in the cosmetic actives section.

Product ideas

Mattifying fluids, balancing day creams, pore refining serums, gentle face cleansers, body washes, scalp care shampoos for oily scalp, mattifying foundations and powders, deodorant creams and body powders are the main uses.

Sample recipe: mattifying fluid, 100 g

Distilled water 80.20 g, AJIDEW ZN100 0.60 g, niacinamide 3.00 g, glycerin 3.00 g, propanediol 2.00 g, caprylic/capric triglyceride 4.00 g, isoamyl laurate 2.00 g, glyceryl stearate citrate 2.50 g, silica 1.00 g, xanthan gum 0.30 g, preservative 1.00 g, citric acid solution 0.40 g. Heat water and oil phases to 75 °C, emulsify, add silica and cool, dissolve AJIDEW ZN100 and niacinamide in a little water and add them below 40 °C with the preservative, and adjust to about pH 5.5.

Scalp care

Oily scalp is a common concern, and the supplier gives 1% for foaming hair cleansers that support a healthy looking scalp. A clear shampoo with zinc PCA, a mild surfactant system and a fresh fragrance keeps the scalp feeling clean and balanced for longer.

Powders and deodorants

At 0.1 to 0.2% in deodorants, body powders and baby powders, zinc PCA adds a fresh, clean feel. In powders, mix it with the other dry ingredients evenly before adding fragrance.

Mature skin serums

The supplier gives 0.8 to 0.9% in active serums for mature skin. Here zinc PCA adds moisture and a fresh, refined look, and it combines well with peptides and humectants in a light serum base.

Storage

Store in a clean, dry place in a tightly closed container. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.