AcquaCell

AcquaCell in short

AcquaCell is a moisturizing complex that brings fruit and seed extracts together with two natural moisturizing factors. Watermelon, apple and lentil extracts provide sugars, amino acids and plant compounds, while sodium lactate and sodium PCA add the same type of water-binding salts that the skin uses to keep its upper layer supple. The INCI is Water, Citrullus Vulgaris (Watermelon) Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta (Lentil) Fruit Extract, Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate. It is a clear liquid, light yellow to amber, with a pH of 4 to 6 and a single recommended dose of 3%.

The role of each part

Watermelon

Watermelon fruit is more than ninety percent water and contains sugars, amino acids such as citrulline and a range of plant compounds. In cosmetics it is the symbol of freshness and hydration and a favorite of summer and gel products.

Apple

Apple fruit extract brings sugars and natural fruit acids in small amounts, which gives a fresh feel and supports a smooth looking surface.

Lentil

Lentil fruit extract adds plant proteins and sugars that help hold moisture on the skin and give a soft, cared for feel. It is less common in cosmetics, which makes it an interesting ingredient to name on a pack.

Sodium lactate and sodium PCA

These two salts are part of the natural moisturizing factor of the skin. They bind water strongly and help the skin stay hydrated through the day.

What it does

Together, these parts make AcquaCell a hydration complex. Skin treated with products containing it looks plumper and feels more supple, softer and more comfortable. The fresh fruit story suits young brands and summer product launches, and the natural moisturizing factor part gives the formulator a solid scientific base for moisture claims.

How to formulate

Add AcquaCell to the water phase of a gel, serum or toner, or to an emulsion at cool-down. It combines well with humectants such as sodium PCA and with hyaluronic acid for a layered moisture profile. More moisturizing actives are listed in the cosmetic actives section.

Product ideas

Moisturizing gel creams, hydrating serums, toners and essences, eye gels, sheet mask essences, after-sun gels and light body lotions are the natural uses. A watermelon themed line of products for summer is an easy concept to build on this one ingredient.

Sample recipe: watermelon hydrating gel cream, 100 g

Distilled water 80.30 g, glycerin 4.00 g, AcquaCell 3.00 g, caprylic/capric triglyceride 5.00 g, squalane 2.00 g, sodium acrylates copolymer 1.50 g, panthenol 1.00 g, sodium hyaluronate 0.20 g, preservative 1.00 g, fragrance 0.20 g, citric acid solution 1.80 g. Hydrate sodium hyaluronate in water, add glycerin and panthenol, disperse the polymer and the oils to form a gel cream, add AcquaCell, the preservative and fragrance below 40 °C and adjust to about pH 5.

Why a ready complex

Building the same profile from single ingredients would mean buying and storing several extracts and salts. AcquaCell delivers them in one liquid at one dose, which simplifies purchasing, weighing and documentation for a small production. The single recommended level of 3% also makes it easy to scale a recipe from a lab batch to a full production run.

Claims

Suitable claims include skin that looks plumper and feels more hydrated, a softer and more supple feel and a fresher looking complexion. Corneometer readings before and after a few hours of use are a standard way to support a moisture claim.

Storage

Store in a dry, dark place in a tightly closed container. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.