White Grape Extract

White Grape Extract at a glance

White Grape Extract is a brightening active from Canada. Despite its name, the working ingredient listed on the INCI is a peptide: oligopeptide-68, carried in a lecithin based system. The full INCI is Water, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Oleate, Oligopeptide-68, Disodium EDTA. The liquid is clear to pale yellow, dissolves readily in water and has a pH of 6.0 to 8.0. It is dose dependent, with clear levels for radiance, corrective care and intensive brightening, and a maximum of 5%.

Oligopeptide-68

Oligopeptide-68 is a short peptide developed for tone evening. In cosmetic science it is linked to the signals that lead to pigment production, and in use it helps the complexion look brighter, more even and more radiant, and helps dark spots look lighter. The hydrogenated lecithin and sodium oleate form a carrier that helps the peptide spread on the skin and blend into the formula.

Dosing by goal

The supplier gives a clear dose map. For radiance and glow in daily products, 0.5 to 1% is enough. For corrective care and the look of age spots, 1 to 2.5%. For intensive tone evening, 2.5 to 5%. When the formula also contains exfoliating acids, 1% is advised. The maximum is 5%.

Who it is for

The supplier positions it for women with uneven tone and texture caused by age, sun exposure and hormonal changes. It is also suited to targeted care for the hands, underarms and decollete, to products against the look of photo aging, and to care for darker skin tones, where even tone is a key concern.

How to formulate

Add the liquid to the water phase of a gel or serum, or to an emulsion at cool-down below 40 °C. Keep the finished pH at about 5.5 to 7, in line with its own pH. Avoid high shear after adding it to protect the lecithin system. It combines well with other brighteners such as alpha arbutin and niacinamide, and with gentle exfoliants at the reduced 1% dose. Compare more brightening extracts in our botanical extracts section.

Product ideas

Brightening serums, light gel serums, tone evening day creams, eye creams for the look of dark circles, hand creams for the look of spots, underarm and decollete care, and glow products for daily radiance are the main uses.

Sample recipe: tone evening serum, 100 g

Distilled water 84.30 g, glycerin 3.00 g, propanediol 3.00 g, niacinamide 4.00 g, White Grape Extract 2.50 g, hydroxyethylcellulose 0.70 g, panthenol 1.00 g, preservative 1.00 g, citric acid solution 0.50 g. Disperse the cellulose in water, add glycerin, propanediol, niacinamide and panthenol, then add White Grape Extract and the preservative below 40 °C with gentle stirring, and adjust to about pH 6.

Labeling and claims

On the label the active appears under its six INCI names. Use brightening and tone evening language, such as a brighter, more radiant and more even looking complexion and dark spots that look lighter. Advise daily, because sun exposure makes spots look darker.

Testing

Tone claims are best supported with standard photos and colorimeter or spot imaging before and after eight weeks of use, together with a self assessment questionnaire.

Combining with exfoliants

Exfoliating acids remove dull surface cells and help brighteners show their effect sooner. When a formula contains acids, the supplier advises lowering White Grape Extract to 1%, because the two approaches work together and the skin needs less of each. A gentle polyhydroxy acid or mandelic acid suits sensitive and darker skin tones better than strong glycolic acid.

Storage

Store in a cool place in a tightly closed container. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.