Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate

Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate at a glance

Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate is a fine crystalline powder that dissolves in oils and other lipids. Chemically it is an ester: glycyrrhetinic acid, a compound obtained from licorice root, is joined to stearyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol. The result is an oil-soluble form of a classic licorice compound. It is widely used in soothing creams, sensitive-skin care, after-sun products and lip balms. Confirm purity on the supplier CoA.

Licorice in skin care

Licorice root has a long history in traditional beauty and is one of the best-known plant sources of calming ingredients. Several licorice compounds are used in cosmetics: some for brightening, others for comfort. Glycyrrhetinic acid and its esters belong to the comfort group. They are favorites in products that should help skin feel calm and look less red after sun, wind or shaving.

Product formats

Soothing creams

Face and body creams for sensitive or reactive-looking skin carry it in the oil phase.

After-sun products

After-sun lotions and creams help skin feel comfortable after sun exposure.

Lip balms

Anhydrous lip balms dissolve it easily in the melted oils and waxes.

After-shave balms

Balms for the beard area help skin feel calm after shaving.

Baby care

Gentle creams for delicate skin are a common use for licorice compounds.

Processing

Dissolve the powder in the oil phase at about 70 to 80 °C with stirring until fully clear. Then emulsify with the water phase as usual. In balms, dissolve it in the warm oils before adding the waxes. Check for crystals after cooling, especially in products with a small oil phase.

Good partners

Bisabolol, panthenol and allantoin build a calming base. Oat seed oil adds comfort to creams, and Madecassoside completes a cica story. Browse more soothing ingredients in the actives catalog.

Testing

Store samples in the fridge and look for crystals. A panel with sensitive skin can rate comfort and the look of redness after use.

Claims

Skin feels calm and comfortable; helps reduce the look of redness; with a licorice root compound.

Characteristics

Form: fine crystalline powder. Solubility: in oils and other lipids. Chemistry: ester of glycyrrhetinic acid from licorice root and stearyl alcohol. Typical uses: soothing creams, sensitive-skin care, after-sun, lip balms, after-shave. Grade and level: supplier data sheet and CoA.

Original recipe: calming after-sun cream, 100 g

Distilled water 68.30 g, glycerin 4.00 g, aloe vera juice 5.00 g, xanthan gum 0.20 g, glyceryl stearate citrate 4.00 g, cetearyl alcohol 2.00 g, sunflower oil 8.00 g, squalane 4.00 g, stearyl glycyrrhetinate 0.20 g, bisabolol 0.30 g, panthenol 2.00 g, tocopherol 0.50 g, phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin 1.00 g, citric acid 0.50 g. Dissolve stearyl glycyrrhetinate in the hot oil phase, emulsify with the heated water phase, cool, add panthenol, bisabolol and the preservative, then adjust the pH.

Why the ester form

Glycyrrhetinic acid on its own dissolves poorly in both water and oil. Turning it into a stearyl ester makes it easy to dissolve in the oil phase, where it stays stable in creams and balms. This is why the ester form is a standard choice for emulsions and anhydrous products.

Range ideas

An after-sun cream, a comfort face cream and a lip balm can share the licorice compound and a calm, comforting story for sensitive skin.

Lot records

Keep each CoA with the batch file and note the lot used.

Record the lot number in your batch log so every production run can be traced back to its certificate of analysis. Retain a small sample of each lot for at least the shelf life of the finished product, since it makes later quality questions much easier to answer.

Storage

Store closed in a dry place away from light. Close the container after use.