Indau Delicatesse

Indau Delicatesse at a glance

Indau Delicatesse is a soothing active made from an unexpected source: the leaves of rocket, Eruca sativa, the peppery salad green known in the US as arugula. The leaves are hydrolyzed to make their components water-soluble, which gives the INCI Hydrolyzed Rocket Leaves. The liquid is yellow, comes from Italy, has a pH of 2.6 to 3.5 and is used at 3% of the finished product. As the name suggests, it is aimed at delicate, sensitive skin.

A salad green for sensitive skin

Rocket belongs to the cabbage family, plants that are rich in sulfur compounds, vitamins and minerals. In the hydrolyzed form, these components become a gentle, water-soluble active. The supplier describes it as supporting the skin's own defenses and acting as a soothing and softening agent. In cosmetic language, products with Indau Delicatesse help skin feel calmer and more comfortable, look less red and more even in tone and feel softer.

Where it is used

The supplier lists a broad set of uses. After shaving and after hair removal, the skin feels sensitive, and a soothing active is welcome. In acid peels and post peel care, the low pH of the hydrolysate fits right in, and its comfort effect balances the acids. Products for skin prone to visible redness, hypoallergenic lines, products for sensitive skin, baby care and after-sun care are other natural homes. In hair care, scalp products use it for a comfortable, moisturized feel.

How to formulate

pH

The hydrolysate is acidic, pH 2.6 to 3.5. In a peel or acid toner this is an advantage. In a neutral cream or gel, add it at cool-down and then adjust the final pH to about 5 to 6 with sodium hydroxide or arginine. Check the pH after adding all actives.

Dose and process

Use 3%, added to the water phase or at cool-down below 40 °C. Stir until uniform. The yellow color is light at use level.

Partners

A sensitive skin line can combine it with bisabolol for an oil-soluble comfort note and with panthenol for hydration. In a peel, it pairs with mandelic acid, a gentle large molecule acid. More comfort actives are listed in the cosmetic actives section.

Product ideas

Aftershave balms, post hair removal gels, post peel soothing creams, gentle acid peels, creams for skin prone to visible redness, sensitive skin day creams, baby creams, after-sun gels and soothing scalp lotions are the main uses.

Sample recipe: soothing aftershave balm, 100 g

Distilled water 79.50 g, glycerin 4.00 g, caprylic/capric triglyceride 5.00 g, squalane 2.00 g, sodium acrylates copolymer 1.50 g, Indau Delicatesse 3.00 g, panthenol 1.00 g, bisabolol 0.30 g, allantoin 0.20 g, preservative 1.00 g, fragrance 0.20 g, sodium hydroxide solution 2.30 g. Dissolve allantoin in warm water, cool, add glycerin and disperse the polymer with the oils, then add the remaining ingredients below 40 °C and adjust to about pH 5.5.

Formulating for sensitive skin

Keep the formula short. Use a low fragrance level or none at all, avoid essential oils and choose a gentle preservative system. Test the finished product under dermatological control if you plan a sensitive skin claim.

Labeling

On the label it appears as Hydrolyzed Rocket Leaves. In marketing copy, rocket leaf or arugula extract is a fresh, unexpected story that consumers remember.

Testing comfort claims

Comfort and redness claims are easy to support with simple methods. A consumer panel can rate the feeling of tightness and stinging after shaving or after a peel, with and without the product. Colorimeter readings or standard photos show the look of redness before and after use. Keep the results and the claims in cosmetic language.

Storage

Store in a cool, dry place protected from light. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.