Madecassoside

Madecassoside at a glance

Madecassoside is a powder that is poorly soluble in water. The supplier specification recommends introducing it through glycols or as a pre-dispersion, notes that it is compatible with emulsion systems and gives a working pH range of 5.0 to 6.5. Listed uses include serums, creams and emulsions, products for sensitive skin, body creams and lotions, restoring products and professional cosmetology. Madecassoside is one of the key triterpene compounds of Centella asiatica, the plant known in skin care as cica or gotu kola. Confirm purity on the supplier CoA.

The cica trend

Centella asiatica has been used in traditional beauty in Asia for centuries. In recent years, cica creams have become a global category for sensitive, stressed and reactive-looking skin. Madecassoside lets a brand use a purified compound from the plant instead of a full extract, which gives more consistent results and a clear, science-based story.

Product formats

Calming serums

Light serums for sensitive or stressed skin are the most popular format.

Creams and emulsions

Cica creams combine madecassoside with lipids and humectants for a comforting finish.

Sensitive-skin care

The supplier specification lists products for sensitive skin. Keep these formulas short and fragrance-free.

Body care

Body creams and lotions for dry, rough areas are listed.

Professional care

Salon programs use cica masks and creams after intensive skin care.

Processing

Pre-disperse the powder in butylene glycol, propylene glycol or glycerin, then add the premix to the water phase with stirring. In emulsions, add the premix during cool-down. Keep the final pH between 5.0 and 6.5. Check the product for undissolved particles under a magnifying glass.

Good partners

Panthenol and allantoin complete a calming base. Oat seed oil adds comfort to cica creams, and propylene glycol is a practical carrier for the pre-dispersion. Browse more soothing actives in the actives catalog.

Testing

Check that no crystals form after storage in the fridge. A panel with sensitive skin can rate comfort, redness appearance and tightness.

Claims

Skin feels calm and comfortable; helps reduce the look of redness; with purified Centella asiatica compound.

Characteristics

Form: powder. Solubility: poor in water; introduce via glycols or pre-dispersion; compatible with emulsions. pH range: 5.0 to 6.5. Source plant: Centella asiatica. Listed uses: serums, creams and emulsions, sensitive-skin products, body creams and lotions, restoring products, professional cosmetology. Grade: supplier CoA.

Original recipe: cica comfort cream, 100 g

Distilled water 66.60 g, glycerin 4.00 g, butylene glycol 4.00 g, madecassoside 0.20 g, xanthan gum 0.20 g, glyceryl stearate citrate 4.00 g, cetearyl alcohol 2.50 g, shea butter 5.00 g, oat seed oil 8.00 g, panthenol 2.00 g, allantoin 0.20 g, tocopherol 0.50 g, phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin 1.00 g, sodium citrate 1.80 g. Pre-disperse madecassoside in the butylene glycol, emulsify the heated phases, cool and add the premix, panthenol, allantoin and the preservative, then adjust the pH.

Purified compound versus extract

A full Centella extract contains many compounds, and the content varies with the harvest. A purified compound such as madecassoside gives a defined, repeatable ingredient. Many brands combine both: the extract for the plant story and the purified compound for consistency. Label the ingredients clearly so shoppers can see which form is used.

Range ideas

A cica serum, a comfort cream and a body lotion form a classic calming range.

Lot records

Keep each CoA with the batch file and note the lot used.

Storage

Store closed in a dry place away from light. Close the container after use.