Pantrofina NMF

Pantrofina NMF at a glance

Pantrofina NMF is a moisturizing complex that rebuilds the natural moisturizing factor of the skin in one liquid. NMF is the mix of small molecules, mostly amino acids, PCA, urea, lactate and sugars, that sits in the outer layer of the skin and keeps it supple. The listed INCI is Aqua, Sodium PCA, Mel, Urea, Glucose, Fructose, Pentylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Glycine, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Lysine HCl, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Propylene Glycol. The amber liquid comes from Italy, has a pH of 5.0 to 6.0 and is used at 1 to 5% of the finished product.

What each group does

NMF components

Sodium PCA, urea, glycine and lysine are typical parts of the skin's own NMF. They bind water strongly and help the outer skin layer stay hydrated and flexible.

Honey and sugars

Mel, the INCI name for honey, together with glucose and fructose, adds a natural humectant effect and a soft skin feel. Honey has a long tradition in beauty care and gives a warm, natural story.

Film formers

Hydrolyzed collagen and hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans form a smooth film that holds moisture on the surface and gives an immediate silky feel.

Helpers

Pentylene glycol and propylene glycol support humectancy and preservation, and citric acid keeps the pH in a skin friendly range.

What it does

The complex gives the skin a full set of the molecules it needs to stay hydrated. Skin feels softer, smoother and more supple, looks plumper and stays comfortable for longer. It is especially welcome in products for dry skin, after-sun care and hair care, where the moisture binding molecules help dry hair feel softer.

How to formulate

Add Pantrofina NMF to the water phase or to an emulsion at cool-down below 40 °C, at 1 to 5%. It dissolves in water, glycerin and glycols, but not in oils, so it cannot go into anhydrous oil products. The pH of 5.0 to 6.0 matches most skin care. Because it contains sugars and proteins, a robust preservative system is important. It fits with barrier ingredients such as a ceramide complex and with trehalose for a deeper moisture profile. Find more moisturizing actives in the cosmetic actives section.

Product ideas

Moisturizing day creams, rich night creams, hydrating masks, body lotions, serums for dry skin, after-sun gels and lotions, conditioners and hair masks are the main uses.

Sample recipe: NMF moisture cream, 100 g

Distilled water 71.80 g, glycerin 3.00 g, glyceryl stearate citrate 4.00 g, cetearyl alcohol 3.00 g, caprylic/capric triglyceride 7.00 g, shea butter 4.00 g, squalane 2.00 g, xanthan gum 0.30 g, Pantrofina NMF 3.50 g, preservative 1.00 g, fragrance 0.20 g, sodium hydroxide solution 0.20 g. Heat water and oil phases to 75 °C, emulsify, cool to below 40 °C, add Pantrofina NMF, the preservative and fragrance, and adjust to about pH 5.5.

Note for vegan brands

The complex contains honey and hydrolyzed collagen, so it is not suitable for vegan products.

Why a complete NMF

Single humectants such as glycerin or hyaluronic acid each bind water in their own way. The natural moisturizing factor of the skin, however, is a mix of many small molecules that work together. Washing, cold weather, low humidity and age all reduce the NMF, which is why skin feels tight and rough in winter. A complex that brings back the whole mix gives a more balanced, skin like hydration than any single ingredient, and it does so at a low dose of 1 to 5%.

Hair care uses

In conditioners and hair masks, the small moisture binding molecules help dry and damaged hair feel softer and more manageable, while the hydrolyzed collagen adds a light conditioning film. After-sun hair sprays are another good fit.

Storage

Store in a cool, dark place in a tightly closed container. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.