Naringenin Chalcone

Naringenin Chalcone at a glance

Naringenin Chalcone is a soothing active from Switzerland. Its INCI is Tetrasodium Tetracarboxymethyl Naringeninchalcone, Aqua. It is a white, water-soluble powder used at a very low dose: 0.05 to 0.1% of the finished product. The supplier highlights that this low dose makes it very economical while it stays highly effective.

A citrus polyphenol

Naringenin chalcone is a polyphenol that occurs naturally in the peel of plants, for example in citrus fruits and tomatoes. Chalcones are a family of plant pigments that act as precursors of flavonoids. In nature, they help protect plants against stress. The form used here is a carboxymethylated sodium salt, a modification that makes the polyphenol water-soluble and easy to formulate.

What it does

The supplier lists a rich profile for sensitive skin. It protects sensitive skin, moisturizes the upper layer of the skin and soothes and calms it. It helps reduce the look of redness and of the visible network of small vessels. It also gives a lifting effect and helps against the signs of aging, and it helps protect the skin from the negative effects of UV light. In cosmetic terms, products with naringenin chalcone help sensitive skin look calmer, less red and more even, and feel more comfortable.

Who it is for

The supplier lists care for thin and sensitive skin, soothing products for irritated skin and care for redness prone skin, including redness without a clear cause. These skin types often react to strong actives, fragrance and harsh cleansers. A gentle active that works at a tiny dose fits them well.

How to formulate

Weighing a low dose

At 0.05 to 0.1%, accurate weighing matters. Make a premix: dissolve 1 part of the powder in 99 parts of water, giving a 1% solution, and use 5 to 10% of this premix in the formula.

Addition point

Add the premix to the water phase at cool-down. Keep the finished product at about pH 5 to 6.5.

Partners

For a complete redness care serum, combine it with Rutan SP, a soluble rutin, and with bisabolol for extra comfort. More soothing actives are listed in the cosmetic actives section.

Product ideas

Redness calming serums, comfort creams for sensitive skin, soothing gels, eye creams for thin skin, after sun soothing lotions, gentle day creams with a lifting message and baby comfort creams are the main concepts.

Sample recipe: redness calming serum, 100 g

Distilled water 86.40 g, naringenin chalcone 1% premix in water 10.00 g, glycerin 1.00 g, Rutan SP 1.00 g, hydroxyethylcellulose 0.80 g, panthenol 0.50 g, preservative 0.30 g. Disperse the cellulose in the water, add glycerin and panthenol, cool below 40 °C, add the naringenin chalcone premix, Rutan SP and the preservative, and adjust to about pH 6.

Formulas for sensitive skin

Keep the base simple: few ingredients, no strong fragrance, no high alcohol levels and a gentle preservative system. Test the finished product for skin compatibility on sensitive skin panels before launch.

Claims

Speak of calmer, more comfortable skin, less visible redness, a more even look and support for sensitive skin against daily stress.

Cost in use

Because the dose is only 0.05 to 0.1%, a small pack covers many batches. This makes it easy to add a high performance soothing active even to everyday products such as cleansers, toners and day creams for sensitive skin.

Safety notes

Avoid contact with the eyes and do not exceed the recommended dose.

Storage

Store in a cool, dark place in a tightly closed container. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.