Rutan SP

Rutan SP at a glance

Rutan SP is a bioflavonoid active from Switzerland. Its INCI is Rutinyl Succinate, a soluble ester of rutin with succinic acid. Rutin is a natural flavonoid found in buckwheat, citrus and many other plants, and it is often called vitamin P. Rutan SP is a clear, opalescent liquid with a light yellow to amber color and a pH of 3.5 to 4.5. It is used at 0.5 to 5% of the finished product.

Why a rutin derivative

Rutin itself is a pale yellow powder that hardly dissolves in water, which makes it difficult to use in light serums and gels. Linking it to succinic acid gives rutinyl succinate, a form that dissolves in ethanol, propylene glycol and glycerin and in water with only a slight opalescence. The formulator gets the benefits of the flavonoid in an easy to use liquid.

What it does

The supplier describes Rutan SP as an antioxidant, a free radical scavenger and a bioflavonoid with a protective effect against UV related stress. It is used in cosmetic products that soothe the skin and reduce the look of redness. It supports the look of the small vessels near the skin surface, which is why it is a popular partner for caffeine in eye care and contouring products. As an inhibitor of the enzyme lipoxygenase, it helps calm the skin's response to daily stress.

How to formulate

Dissolving

Premix Rutan SP in glycerin or propylene glycol, or add it directly to the water phase, where it gives a slight opalescence. In alcohol based toners it dissolves clearly.

pH

The product has a pH of 3.5 to 4.5. At typical use levels this lowers the pH of the finished product slightly. Check the pH and adjust to about 5 to 6 for face and eye care.

Partners

In eye gels, Rutan SP pairs well with caffeine for a less puffy, brighter look. In after shave balms and sensitive skin creams, add bisabolol for extra comfort. More soothing actives are listed in the cosmetic actives section.

Dosing

Children's care and daily creams use 0.5 to 1%. Sensitive skin serums and eye gels use 1 to 3%. Intensive redness care and contouring products use up to 5%.

Product ideas

The supplier lists antioxidant appearance-focused cosmetic products, products that soothe sensitive looking skin, children's skin care, face care with a focus on the eye area, after shave and after depilation care, body contouring products and after-sun care. Typical concepts are eye gels for dark circles, redness calming serums, after shave balms and baby comfort creams.

Sample recipe: depuffing eye gel, 100 g

Distilled water 87.60 g, Rutan SP 2.00 g, caffeine 1.00 g, glycerin 3.00 g, propanediol 3.00 g, hydroxyethylcellulose 1.00 g, panthenol 0.50 g, preservative 1.00 g, sodium hydroxide solution 0.90 g. Dissolve caffeine in the warm water, cool, disperse the cellulose, add glycerin, propanediol and panthenol, add Rutan SP and the preservative, and adjust to about pH 6 with the sodium hydroxide solution.

After shave and depilation

Shaving and hair removal leave the skin stressed and red looking. A light balm with 1 to 2% Rutan SP, a soothing plant extract and a little panthenol helps the skin feel calm and look less red afterwards.

Children's care

The supplier lists children's skin care among the uses. At 0.5 to 1% in a gentle, fragrance free cream, Rutan SP adds antioxidant protection and helps delicate skin feel comfortable after time outdoors.

Safety notes

The supplier asks for a sensitivity test of the finished product, for example a test application on the inner elbow.

Storage

Store in a cool, dark place in a tightly closed container. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.