Multi Herb

Multi Herb at a glance

Multi Herb is a French plant complex for balancing skin care. It combines six extracts in water and propylene glycol: Arctium lappa (burdock), Citrus limonum (lemon), Hedera helix (ivy), Nasturtium officinale (watercress), Salvia officinalis (sage) and Saponaria officinalis. It is an amber liquid with a faint, typical herbal odor and a pH of 5.7, preserved with Phenonip at 0.25%. It dissolves in water and in 60% ethanol. The supplier lists oily, combination and sensitive skin as the main skin types.

Five actions from six plants

The supplier explains the blend through five actions.

Astringent

Sage and lemon have an astringent effect. They give a tightening feel and help enlarged pores look smaller.

Cleansing and toning

The vitamins and minerals of watercress, the citric acid and vitamins of lemon and the saponins of Saponaria and ivy tone the skin and help keep pores clean.

Balancing shine

The essential oil components of sage act on the skin's oil production and help balance shine through the day.

Purifying

Burdock and sage contain plant compounds that help keep the skin surface clean and fresh looking.

Soothing

Sage, ivy and burdock, which is rich in inulin, soften and soothe the skin and help reduce the feeling of itchiness and discomfort. The vitamin C of watercress and the citric acid of lemon help the complexion look clearer and fresher.

How to formulate

Add Multi Herb to the water phase at cool-down or directly to a toner or gel. It dissolves in water and in 60% ethanol, so it also suits alcohol based toners for oily skin. The supplier gives no fixed dose, so set the level by sensory and stability testing; the sample recipe below uses 5%. Keep the finished product at about pH 5.5. The saponins add a light foam boost in cleansing gels. A balancing serum can add niacinamide, and a light gel can add betaine for moisture without oil. More oily skin actives are listed in the cosmetic actives section.

Product ideas

The supplier lists creams, gels, liquid emulsions, cleansing gels, cleansing milks, toning lotions, masks and gels for blemish prone skin. Popular concepts are mattifying day gels, herbal toners, purifying clay masks and gentle cleansing gels for combination skin.

Sample recipe: herbal balancing toner, 100 g

Distilled water 84.20 g, Multi Herb 5.00 g, glycerin 2.00 g, propanediol 3.00 g, ethanol 4.00 g, panthenol 0.50 g, preservative 1.00 g, citric acid solution 0.30 g. Mix the water, glycerin and propanediol, add ethanol, Multi Herb and panthenol, then the preservative, and adjust to about pH 5.5.

Odor and color

The blend has a faint herbal smell, which fits a natural, green story. Its amber color gives a light tint to clear toners and gels.

Cleansing products

The saponins from Saponaria officinalis and ivy are natural foaming compounds. In a cleansing gel they support a soft, creamy foam and allow a slightly lower level of synthetic surfactants. In a cleansing milk, the blend adds a toning, refreshing note to a gentle formula. Add the extract after the surfactants are mixed and check the viscosity.

Masks

Clay masks for oily skin are a classic home for herbal blends. Kaolin or bentonite absorbs excess oil, while the extract adds its toning and soothing action and a pleasant green story on the label.

Who it suits

Because the blend combines tightening, cleansing and soothing plants, it suits skin that is oily and sensitive at the same time, a common combination that strong drying products tend to irritate. Recommend daily use morning and evening.

Storage

Store in a cool, dark place in a tightly closed container. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.