MONTANOV 202

MONTANOV 202 at a glance

MONTANOV 202 is a plant based emulsifier from France. Its INCI is Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside. It comes as white, waxy granules, is oil-soluble and is melted in the oil phase at 85 °C. It builds oil-in-water emulsions with a smooth, glossy look. The supplier gives a detailed dose table, from 0.5% in light gel milks up to 5% in makeup.

Glucoside emulsifiers

The Montanov family of emulsifiers is built from fatty alcohols and glucose, both of plant origin. The fatty alcohol part anchors the emulsifier in the oil, and the glucose part reaches into the water. Together with the free fatty alcohols in the blend, they form liquid crystal structures around the oil droplets. These structures stabilize the emulsion, give a pleasant, rich yet light feel and help hold water in the skin surface after application.

How to make the emulsion

The supplier describes the process. Melt MONTANOV 202 in the oil phase at 85 °C. Heat the water phase to the same temperature. Combine the phases and start mixing at a slow speed, then gradually speed up. The coarse mix turns into a smooth, glossy emulsion within three to four minutes. Cool with gentle stirring and add heat sensitive ingredients below 40 °C.

The supplier's dose table

Gel milks use 0.5 to 1.5%. Lotions and makeup removers use 2 to 3%. After-sun care uses 3.5 to 4%. Makeup such as foundations uses 4 to 5%. Hair conditioners and hair creams use 2%.

Why the long chains

Arachidyl and behenyl alcohols have long chains of 20 and 22 carbon atoms. These long chains give more stable emulsions, especially with high oil loads, pigments and sun filters. This is why the supplier gives higher levels for after-sun care and makeup, where emulsions have to carry many solids and oils.

How to formulate

Choose the dose by product type and oil load. For a light lotion with 10 to 15% oils, 2 to 3% is a good start. Add a little xanthan gum to the water phase for extra stability. MONTANOV 202 is compatible with most actives and works across the usual pH range of skin care. A moisturizing cream can add panthenol and sodium PCA to the water phase. More functional ingredients are listed in the cosmetic actives section.

Product ideas

Day and night creams, light gel milks, body lotions, makeup removing milks, sun lotions, foundations and tinted creams, hair conditioners and hair creams are the main uses.

Sample recipe: glossy day cream, 100 g

Distilled water 73.20 g, glycerin 4.00 g, xanthan gum 0.20 g, MONTANOV 202 3.00 g, caprylic/capric triglyceride 8.00 g, squalane 4.00 g, shea butter 3.00 g, dimethicone 1.00 g, sodium PCA 1.00 g, panthenol 1.00 g, preservative 1.00 g, fragrance 0.30 g, citric acid solution 0.30 g. Melt MONTANOV 202 with the oils at 85 °C, heat the water phase with glycerin and xanthan gum to 85 °C, combine with slow mixing and speed up until smooth, cool, add sodium PCA, panthenol, the preservative and fragrance below 40 °C, and adjust to about pH 5.5.

Makeup removers

Makeup removing milks need a light, fluid emulsion that lifts makeup and rinses or wipes off cleanly. At 2 to 3% MONTANOV 202 gives such a milk, with a soft, caring after feel.

After-sun care and makeup

Sun lotions and foundations carry high levels of oils, filters and pigments. The supplier's levels of 3.5 to 5% for these products reflect the need for strong stability. The glucoside emulsifier also helps pigments disperse evenly, which gives an even color in tinted products.

Hair care

At 2% in hair conditioners and creams, MONTANOV 202 builds a creamy base that spreads easily through the hair and rinses cleanly.

Storage

Store in a dry, cool place in a closed pack. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.