Melanostatine 5

What Melanostatine 5 is

Melanostatine 5 is a trade-name peptide active developed by Sederma in France. It is supplied as a ready aqueous solution of the synthetic peptide Nonapeptide-1, carried on dextran. Sederma describes it as a biomimetic peptide that acts as an antagonist of alpha-MSH, the signaling peptide that tells pigment cells to step up melanin production. For a formulator, that makes it a water-phase ingredient for leave-on products whose story is a more even-looking complexion and a softer look of dark spots, built on a peptide rather than on acids or high-load vitamin systems.

This card is the liquid. It belongs with the other ready-to-dose liquids on our peptide solutions shelf, so there is no powder to weigh in milligrams and no dissolution step at the bench.

Composition and identity

The INCI declared on the Sederma datasheet is Water (and) Dextran (and) Nonapeptide-1, in that order. Dextran is a glucose polysaccharide that acts as the carrier, CAS 9004-54-0. Nonapeptide-1 is the active sequence Met-Pro-D-Phe-Arg-D-Trp-Phe-Lys-Pro-Val-NH2, with a molecular weight of about 1206 Da and CAS 158563-45-2. The trade product as a whole is a mixture, so it has no single CAS number.

The classic grade is supplied preserved, and the datasheet names the preservative system. Copy the preservative shown on your lot paperwork into the finished label. Sederma also sells a separate preservative-free BG grade that adds butylene glycol, so check which grade the CoA describes before you write the ingredient list.

Appearance and feel

Expect a colorless, near-odorless, water-thin liquid that blends straight into water and glycols. It adds no color and no scent of its own, which suits clear serums and white emulsions alike. Confirm appearance against the CoA of each lot.

How to use it in a formula

Add Melanostatine 5 at the end of the process. Sederma advises a temperature of 35 to 40 °C, so dose it into the water phase or the finished emulsion during cool-down and stir until uniform. Do not hold it in a hot phase. Follow the use level printed on your supplier sheet, and treat lower levels as a starting point for toners and mists.

Compatibility notes

The solution is water-compatible and suits gels, serums, essences, light lotions and creams. Keep the finished product in a skin-friendly pH range, avoid strong oxidizers in the same phase, and preserve the water phase fully, as you would for any peptide. It sits comfortably next to niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and panthenol in multi-active tone serums.

Do not pair it with an alpha-MSH agonist. Melitan is Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, a tanning-support peptide that works in the opposite direction, so the two belong in different products.

Melanostatine 5 or plain Nonapeptide-1

Both cards carry the same active sequence. This listing is the branded Sederma solution with a declared dextran carrier and a published dosing guide. Our generic Nonapeptide-1 card is a separate liquid sold under the INCI name. Pick the trade name when your brief or marketing calls for Melanostatine 5 by name, and pick the generic when the INCI is all you need.

Where it fits

Typical homes are a targeted spot serum used on marks left after blemishes, a daily tone-evening essence, a lightweight day lotion worn under sunscreen, and a hand cream for the look of age spots. A simple bench serum is 85 g water, 3 g glycerin, 0.4 g xanthan gum, 4 g niacinamide, 3 g Melanostatine 5 and a broad-spectrum preservative at its supplier rate, topped up with water to 100 g. Hydrate the gum in the water and glycerin, add niacinamide, cool to below 40 °C, then add Melanostatine 5 and the preservative.

Storage

Keep the bottle tightly closed in a cool place away from direct light, avoid temperature swings, and limit air exposure once opened. Respect the shelf life on the lot sheet. For cosmetic formulation use only.