Hydroskin 48

Hydroskin 48 at a glance

Hydroskin 48 is a complete hydration system in one liquid. It brings together humectants that attract water, film formers that hold it and buffers that keep the formula stable. The INCI is Aqua, Glycerin, Trehalose, Urea, Serine, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Algin, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pullulan, Disodium Phosphate, Potassium Phosphate. The liquid comes from France, dissolves in water and is used at only 1 to 3% of the finished product. The supplier describes it as a complex that keeps the outer layer of the skin at an optimal moisture level, so skin stays elastic and smooth for longer.

The two sides of hydration

Attracting water

Glycerin, trehalose, urea and serine are humectants. Urea and serine are part of the skin's own natural moisturizing factor. Trehalose is a sugar that plants and tiny animals use to survive drought, and in skin care it is known for protecting the skin against dryness.

Holding water

Sodium hyaluronate, algin from seaweed, pullulan from fermentation and glyceryl polyacrylate form a light film on the skin. This film slows down water loss, so the moisture brought by the humectants stays where it is needed. Pentylene glycol and caprylyl glycol add humectancy and support the preservation of the formula.

What it does

The result is both immediate and long lasting hydration. Skin feels softer and smoother right away and stays comfortable through the day. It looks fresher and more youthful. On the scalp, the complex hydrates and protects, which also helps dry and damaged hair look and feel better. The name hints at the long lasting moisture concept, and any time based claim on a pack should be supported with your own corneometer tests.

How to formulate

Add the liquid to the water phase of a cold process product, or to an emulsion at cool-down below 40 °C, at 1 to 3%. Mix the raw material before use if a slight sediment or haze has formed, which the supplier notes does not affect quality. Keep the final pH at about 5 to 6.5. Because the complex already contains several humectants, the glycerin level in the rest of the formula can be reduced. It combines well with barrier lipids such as a ceramide complex for a full moisture and barrier cream, and with panthenol for extra comfort. More moisturizing actives are listed in the cosmetic actives section.

Product ideas

The supplier lists an unusually broad range: face and body moisturizers, appearance-focused cosmetic care, color cosmetics, protective and restoring care, products for dry and depleted skin, shampoos, conditioners, hair masks and sprays, after-sun care, cleansers and baby care. A low dose all in one moisturizing booster is useful in almost any product.

Sample recipe: long lasting hydrating cream, 100 g

Distilled water 74.10 g, glycerin 2.00 g, glyceryl stearate citrate 4.00 g, cetearyl alcohol 2.50 g, caprylic/capric triglyceride 7.00 g, squalane 4.00 g, shea butter 2.00 g, xanthan gum 0.30 g, Hydroskin 48 3.00 g, preservative 1.00 g, citric acid solution 0.10 g. Heat water and oil phases to 75 °C, emulsify, cool to below 40 °C, add Hydroskin 48 and the preservative, and check that the pH is about 5.5.

Labeling

The long INCI list shows a rich moisture formula, which supports a premium hydration story. Trehalose, urea and hyaluronate are names that many consumers already know.

Hair and scalp care

In shampoos and conditioners at 1 to 3%, the complex hydrates the scalp and leaves the hair softer and easier to comb. In leave-in sprays it helps dry ends look smoother and shinier. The film formers in the blend also add a light, conditioning touch without weight, which suits fine hair.

Storage

Store in a dry, dark place at room temperature. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.