Heliogenol

Heliogenol for sun and color care

Heliogenol is a brown liquid hair active from France, made from sunflower seed extract in butylene glycol. The INCI is Butylene Glycol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract. It is water-soluble and designed for hair that spends time in the sun and for color-treated hair that should keep its tone and shine. The use range is low, 0.2 to 1%, so a 0.33 oz (10 mL) trial pack goes a long way.

What it does on the fiber

The supplier presents Heliogenol as a protective plant active. In finished products it helps hair keep its color looking fresh under sun exposure, supports shine and a smooth surface and, in conditioning systems, helps reduce wear during combing. In leave-in products it leaves a light protective feel on the lengths. Claims should talk about color that looks fresher for longer, shine and smoothness.

Use levels by format

Shampoos use up to 1%. Rinse-off conditioners and balms use 0.5 to 1%. Leave-in serums and sprays need only 0.2 to 0.5%, because the active stays on the hair. Intensive masks go up to 1%. Staying in this range also keeps the brown color of the liquid from tinting a light base.

Summer and color ranges

Shampoos, conditioners, sprays and masks for colored hair are the main target, and Heliogenol gives a clear sun and color story for seasonal lines. Heat protection creams and leave-in sprays can combine it with conditioning agents for daily styling.

Building the formula

Add Heliogenol to the water phase, or to a cooled emulsion, and stir until uniform. In conditioners it pairs naturally with behentrimonium chloride, and in shampoos with polyquaternium-10 for slip. For heat styling, SymHair Thermo adds a thermal protection angle. More hair actives are listed in our cosmetic actives section.