Phytokeratine

Phytokeratine at a glance

Phytokeratine is a plant version of keratin, the structural protein of hair, skin and nails. It is made from three hydrolyzed plant proteins, corn, wheat and soy, blended to reproduce the amino acid profile of keratin. The INCI is Hydrolyzed Corn Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein. The liquid is amber with a light characteristic odor, comes from the USA, dissolves in water and has a pH of 4.0 to 6.0. It is used at 1 to 5% in skin care and 2 to 5% in hair care, with up to 10% in intensive products.

Why a plant keratin

Keratin is one of the best known protein names in beauty care, especially in hair products. Animal keratin, however, is not an option for vegan brands. Phytokeratine solves that by combining three plant proteins whose amino acids together resemble keratin. Corn protein is rich in certain amino acids that keratin also contains, wheat protein adds film forming and conditioning, and soy protein completes the profile. The result is a plant based ingredient with the familiar keratin name and benefits.

What it does for skin

The supplier describes Phytokeratine as suitable for all skin types, especially dry and dehydrated skin. It raises the level of free amino acids, supports a healthy moisture level and helps prevent dryness. The protective film it forms holds moisture in the skin, so the skin looks more elastic, firmer and smoother, with a more even surface. It suits mature skin with a rough texture particularly well.

What it does for hair

In hair care, the protein film coats the fiber, adds smoothness and shine and helps hair feel stronger and fuller. Shampoos, conditioners, leave-in and rinse-off serums, sprays, masks, balms and styling products can all carry it.

How to formulate

Add the liquid to the water phase or to an emulsion at cool-down below 40 °C. Keep the finished pH at 4.5 to 6. Proteins are compatible with cationic conditioners and most nonionic systems, and in high anionic surfactant systems a small test batch is advised. For a vegan hair appearance support line, it combines well with vegetable glycerin for softness and panthenol for moisture and shine, keeping the whole formula plant based. More protein actives are listed in the cosmetic actives section.

Product ideas

Moisturizing creams and lotions, toners, face and body masks, quick effect serums, gentle cleansers, everyday shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, leave-in sprays, styling products and baby care are the uses the supplier lists.

Sample recipe: vegan keratin hair mask, 100 g

Distilled water 77.00 g, cetearyl alcohol 6.00 g, behentrimonium methosulfate 3.00 g, shea butter 3.00 g, Phytokeratine 5.00 g, vegetable glycerin 3.00 g, panthenol 1.00 g, preservative 1.00 g, fragrance 0.50 g, citric acid solution 0.50 g. Melt the fatty phase with the conditioner at 75 °C, emulsify into hot water, cool to 40 °C, add glycerin, panthenol, Phytokeratine, preservative and fragrance and adjust to about pH 4.5.

Labeling

On the ingredient list it appears as the three hydrolyzed proteins. Marketing copy can call it a plant keratin or vegan keratin complex. Because it contains wheat protein, brands that make gluten free claims should take that into account.

Choosing the dose

Daily creams and lotions work well at 1 to 3%, intensive masks and serums at 5%, and hair care at 2 to 5%. The supplier allows up to 10% in intensive products. At higher levels the amber color and light odor may become noticeable, so check the look and smell of the finished product.

Storage

Store in a dry, dark place in a tightly closed container. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.