IO Emulsifier Flakes

This ingredient at a glance

372 P comes as flakes that dissolve in oils. It is known as glyceryl stearate citrate, an anionic emulsifier made from vegetable fatty acids, glycerin and citric acid. It forms oil-in-water emulsions with a soft, light, non-greasy finish and is widely used in natural and organic cosmetics. Confirm the INCI name and recommended level on the supplier data sheet.

Why formulators like it

Glyceryl stearate citrate gives elegant creams and lotions with good spreading and a pleasant after-feel. It works across a broad pH range and is suitable for many natural certifications. It pairs well with fatty alcohols and natural thickeners such as xanthan gum.

Product formats

Face creams

Light day and night creams.

Body lotions and milks

Fluid emulsions with fast absorption.

Hand creams

Non-greasy creams for frequent use.

Sun care bases

Emulsion bases for tested sun products.

Processing

Melt the flakes with the oil phase at about 70 to 75 °C. Bring the water phase to a matching temperature, pour the oils in under the homogenizer and stir as the emulsion cools. Add heat-sensitive ingredients below 40 °C. A co-emulsifier such as cetearyl alcohol and a thickener improve stability.

Good partners

Glyceryl stearate citrate Ercawax CE-V is a related grade. Emulsifier Montanov L suits richer creams, and Squalane oil gives a light feel. Browse more in the actives catalog.

Testing

Check emulsion stability at room temperature, 40 °C and freeze-thaw cycles. Check viscosity and droplet size.

Claims

Light, non-greasy texture; smooth, soft finish; suitable for natural formulas.

Characteristics

Form: flakes. Solubility: oils. Type: glyceryl stearate citrate, anionic oil-in-water emulsifier. Grade and INCI: supplier data sheet.

Original recipe: light day cream, 100 g

Distilled water 72.30 g, glycerin 4.00 g, 372 P 4.00 g, cetearyl alcohol 2.00 g, caprylic capric triglyceride 8.00 g, squalane 5.00 g, xanthan gum 0.30 g, niacinamide 2.00 g, panthenol 1.00 g, phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin 1.00 g, tocopherol 0.40 g. Melt the emulsifier and cetearyl alcohol with the oils, heat the water with glycerin and xanthan, emulsify, cool and add niacinamide, panthenol, preservative and tocopherol.

Electrolyte sensitivity

As an anionic emulsifier, glyceryl stearate citrate can be sensitive to high levels of salts. Test stability when adding mineral salts or ionic actives.

Adjusting texture

Increase the fatty alcohol for a thicker cream or reduce it for a fluid lotion. Butters add richness, while light esters give a dry touch.

Lab tip

Make sure both phases reach the same temperature before emulsifying.

Batch consistency

Note the flake appearance of each lot; clumped flakes may indicate warm storage.

Lot records

Keep each CoA with the batch file and note the lot used.

Natural certifications

Glyceryl stearate citrate is commonly accepted in natural cosmetic standards. If certification is a goal, ask the supplier for the relevant documents and check every other ingredient against the standard as well.

Cold-process alternatives

This emulsifier needs heat. For cold-process products, choose a different emulsifier system designed for that method.

Preservation

Emulsions need broad-spectrum preservation and challenge testing before launch.

Troubleshooting

If the emulsion separates, check the temperature of both phases, the mixing time and the fatty alcohol level. A slightly higher emulsifier level or an added thickener often solves thin, unstable lotions.

Record the lot number in your batch log so every production run can be traced back to its certificate of analysis. Retain a small sample of each lot for at least the shelf life of the finished product, since it makes later quality questions much easier to answer.

Storage

Store closed in a cool, dry place. Close the container after use.