Cosphaderm Propanediol

Cosphaderm Propanediol at a glance

Cosphaderm Propanediol is a plant based glycol with the INCI Propanediol. It is a clear liquid from Germany, made by fermenting corn sugar, and it is 100% of plant origin. Propanediol is one of the most versatile helpers in a formulation lab. It hydrates and conditions, softens the skin feel, dissolves actives and plant extracts, helps ingredients reach the skin surface and boosts the effect of preservatives. It mixes with water, propylene glycol and glycerin and is used from 1 to 20% of the finished product.

One ingredient, several jobs

Humectant

Like glycerin, propanediol attracts and holds water, helping skin stay hydrated and preventing water loss from the surface. It gives a lighter, less sticky feel, which is why many brands use it to replace part or all of the glycerin in serums and gels.

Solvent

Propanediol dissolves many actives that are difficult to bring into water, including some plant extracts, salicylic acid and ferulic acid. It is also a good base for preparing premixes of powders.

Preservative booster

Glycols reduce the amount of free water available to microbes and help preservatives work more efficiently. With propanediol in a formula, the preservative level can often be optimized. Always confirm with a challenge test.

Sensory and penetration

The liquid has an excellent sensory profile, light and smooth, and helps other ingredients spread and absorb.

Dosing by role

At 1 to 3% propanediol acts mainly as a sensory modifier and humectant. At 3 to 10% it becomes a strong humectant and a preservative booster. Levels of 10 to 20% are used when it serves as a solvent for difficult actives or as the main glycol in a toner or essence.

Plant based and sustainable

Propanediol made by fermentation from corn sugar is an alternative to petroleum based glycols such as propylene glycol. It is popular with natural and clean beauty brands and with brands that want to reduce their carbon footprint. The supplier highlights its environmental sustainability.

How to formulate

Add it to the water phase at any stage, cold or hot. It is stable to heat and pH. It combines well with all water-soluble actives. A light serum can rely on propanediol together with vegetable glycerin at a lower level, and a moisture complex can add betaine as a second humectant in the same phase. Browse other functional actives in the cosmetic actives section.

Hair care uses

The supplier lists shampoos, conditioners, hair care products and masks. In hair care propanediol moisturizes the hair fiber, improves the slip of conditioners and helps dissolve fragrance and actives in clear shampoos.

Sample recipe: lightweight hydrating serum, 100 g

Distilled water 84.30 g, Cosphaderm Propanediol 8.00 g, glycerin 2.00 g, sodium hyaluronate 0.30 g, panthenol 1.00 g, niacinamide 2.00 g, hydroxyethylcellulose 0.40 g, preservative 1.00 g, citric acid solution 1.00 g. Disperse sodium hyaluronate and the cellulose in the propanediol, add to the water under stirring until smooth, add glycerin, panthenol, niacinamide and the preservative, and adjust to about pH 5.5.

Labeling and claims

On the ingredient list it appears simply as Propanediol. Brands that use it to replace propylene glycol can state that the formula is free of propylene glycol, and natural brands can mention its plant origin from corn. Claims around a light, non sticky feel and lasting hydration are easy to support with a sensory panel and corneometer readings.

Stability and compatibility

Propanediol is stable to heat, light and a wide pH range and does not react with common actives. It is a good carrier for fragile ingredients that dislike water, because a premix in propanediol can be added to the batch at the last step.

Storage

Store in a cool place in a tightly closed container. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.