Vitis Cell

Vitis Cell at a glance

Vitis Cell is a grape cosmetic active active from Italy. Its INCI is Water, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Meristem Cell Culture, and the cell culture makes up 13 to 18% of the product. It is a red to brown water suspension used at only 0.5% of the finished product. It must be added cold, below 40 °C, and shaken before use to mix any cell sediment. The supplier describes it as an innovative active based on activated grape stem cells for skin and hair.

Meristem cells

Meristem is the tissue in plants where new cells form, for example at the tips of shoots. These cells can divide and grow into all kinds of plant tissue, which is why they are called plant stem cells. Vitis Cell is made from meristem cells of the grape vine, Vitis vinifera, grown in culture. The cells are activated so that they produce high levels of protective plant compounds.

Glycosylated polyphenols

Grapes are famous for their polyphenols, such as resveratrol and anthocyanins, which protect the vine against sun and stress. In Vitis Cell, the cultured cells produce glycosylated polyphenols, polyphenols bound to sugar units. The sugar part makes them more water-soluble and more stable. On the skin and hair they act as antioxidants and help protect against UV related stress.

What the supplier describes

At 0.5%, antioxidant protection and protection against environmental stress last up to 6 hours after application. The supplier lists protection against UV induced aging, better resistance to sunlight, better resistance to hot air from hair dryers and high summer temperatures and antioxidant protection for both hair and skin.

How to formulate

Shake the pack well before weighing. Add Vitis Cell to the finished formula below 40 °C. At 0.5% it hardly affects color, though the red brown tint can show in very clear gels. Keep the finished product at about pH 5 to 6.5. A day cream can add ferulic acid for extra antioxidant power. A heat protection hair spray can add hydrolyzed keratin. More antioxidant actives are listed in the cosmetic actives section.

Product ideas

The supplier lists skin care that protects the skin's own stem cells against UV, appearance-focused cosmetic care for face and body, innovative skin care concepts, hair care for stronger looking hair and hair care for better hair structure and UV protection. Typical concepts are antioxidant day creams, city defense serums, after sun lotions, heat protection hair sprays and summer hair masks.

Sample recipe: antioxidant day serum, 100 g

Distilled water 88.30 g, glycerin 3.00 g, propanediol 3.00 g, niacinamide 3.00 g, hydroxyethylcellulose 0.80 g, panthenol 0.50 g, Vitis Cell 0.50 g, preservative 0.80 g, citric acid solution 0.10 g. Dissolve niacinamide in the water, disperse the cellulose, add glycerin, propanediol and panthenol, cool below 40 °C, add the shaken Vitis Cell and the preservative, and adjust to about pH 5.5.

Hair and heat

Hair dryers, flat irons and hot summer air all stress the hair fiber. The supplier lists better resistance to hot air as one of the benefits. A leave-in heat protection spray with 0.5% Vitis Cell gives an antioxidant, plant cosmetic active story to a styling product.

Cost in use

At 0.5% a small pack goes a long way. This makes a premium cosmetic active story affordable even in mass market products.

Claims

Speak of antioxidant protection that lasts for hours, help in defending skin and hair against sun and heat stress, and skin that looks younger and more resilient over time.

Storage

Store in a cool, dark place in a tightly closed container. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.