VegeKeratin

VegeKeratin at a glance

VegeKeratin is a plant based keratin alternative designed for hair care. It combines amino acids from wheat and soy with three single amino acids, arginine, serine and threonine, which are all important parts of hair keratin. The INCI is Wheat Amino Acids, Soy Amino Acids, Arginine HCl, Serine, Threonine. The liquid is amber with a characteristic odor, comes from France, dissolves in water and has a pH of 3.5 to 5.5. It is used at 2 to 5% of the finished product.

Amino acids, not proteins

Most keratin ingredients are hydrolyzed proteins, chains of many amino acids that form a film on the surface of the hair. VegeKeratin goes a step smaller. Free amino acids are tiny molecules that can enter the hair fiber, especially where the cuticle is damaged, and bind water inside. This is why amino acid blends give a different result from proteins: hair feels softer and more supple from the inside, rather than coated from the outside. Combining amino acids and proteins in one formula gives the best of both.

Why these amino acids

Serine and threonine are among the most abundant amino acids in hair keratin and help it bind moisture. Arginine is a positively charged amino acid that is attracted to damaged, negatively charged areas of the hair and is linked to a stronger, healthier looking fiber. Wheat and soy amino acids complete the profile with a broad range of other building blocks.

What it does

Hair treated with VegeKeratin feels stronger, softer and more manageable, looks shinier and holds moisture better. Damaged, colored and heat styled hair shows the clearest difference. The vegan origin is a strong argument for brands that want keratin benefits without animal ingredients.

How to formulate

Add the liquid to the water phase of shampoos and conditioners, or to emulsions at cool-down below 40 °C. Its pH of 3.5 to 5.5 matches hair care very well, since conditioners and masks finish in the same range. Use 2 to 3% in shampoos and 3 to 5% in conditioners, masks and leave-in products. For a complete vegan appearance support system, combine it with a plant protein such as Phytokeratine for a surface film, and with panthenol for moisture and shine. Explore more hair care actives in the cosmetic actives section.

Product ideas

appearance support shampoos, conditioners, balms, deep masks, leave-in sprays and creams, heat protection sprays and styling products such as curl creams and smoothing gels are the main uses. A vegan keratin line with a shampoo, conditioner and mask is a simple and attractive concept.

Sample recipe: vegan keratin conditioner, 100 g

Distilled water 84.50 g, cetearyl alcohol 5.00 g, behentrimonium chloride 2.50 g, VegeKeratin 4.00 g, vegetable glycerin 2.00 g, panthenol 0.50 g, preservative 1.00 g, fragrance 0.30 g, citric acid solution 0.20 g. Melt cetearyl alcohol with the conditioner at 75 °C, emulsify into hot water, cool to 40 °C, add VegeKeratin, glycerin, panthenol, the preservative and fragrance, and adjust to about pH 4.5.

Labeling

On the ingredient list it appears as the five amino acid INCI names. Marketing copy can call it a vegan keratin amino acid complex. Because it contains wheat amino acids, brands making gluten free claims should take that into account.

Testing claims

Combing force tests on damaged tresses, shine measurements and a consumer panel rating softness and manageability are simple ways to support hair appearance support claims. Compare the formula with and without VegeKeratin on the same hair.

Storage

Store in a cool, dry place protected from light. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.