Povidone K 30

Povidone K 30 at a glance

Povidone K 30 is a polyvinylpyrrolidone powder, INCI Polyvinylpyrrolidone. It is a fine, white crystalline powder that dissolves in water, alcohol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol and many other solvents. It has a pH of 3.5 to 5.5 and meets the USP, Ph. Eur. and JP pharmacopoeia specifications. It is also known as PVP K30, with comparable grades on the market under names such as Kollidon 30 and Plasdone K-29/32.

What PVP is

Polyvinylpyrrolidone is a synthetic polymer made from vinylpyrrolidone. It has been used since the middle of the last century in cosmetics, food and cosmetic products. Its key property is that it dissolves in water and alcohol and, when the solvent evaporates, leaves a clear, glossy, flexible film. The K value describes the molecular weight range; K 30 is a medium grade that gives a good balance between film strength and solubility.

Hair styling

PVP was one of the first polymers used in hair sprays and styling gels, and it is still a classic fixative. On the hair, it forms a clear film that holds the shape of the style, adds shine and can be washed out easily with water and shampoo. The supplier gives 2% in regular hair sprays and 2.8 to 3% in strong hold sprays. In mousses and styling gels, the level ranges from 0.25 to 6%, depending on the hold you want and the hair type: curly and coarse hair needs more hold than fine hair.

Other uses

Enzyme stabilizer

The supplier notes that Povidone K 30 stabilizes enzymes, so enzyme based cosmetic products, such as enzyme peels and powders, keep their activity for longer.

Other

The supplier also lists stain removers for fabrics at 2 to 2.5%.

How to formulate

Sprinkle the powder slowly into water or alcohol with stirring, to avoid lumps, and stir until clear. In alcohol based hair sprays, dissolve it in the alcohol first. In gels, dissolve it in water before adding the thickener. PVP can absorb moisture, so styling products in humid climates may feel slightly tacky; a little conditioning polymer or silicone helps. For a styling cream, combine it with panthenol, and for a conditioning gel add hydrolyzed keratin. More hair care ingredients are listed in the cosmetic actives section.

Product ideas

Pump hair sprays, strong hold sprays, styling gels, mousses, curl defining gels, sculpting creams, enzyme peel powders products are the main uses.

Sample recipe: clear styling gel, 100 g

Distilled water 89.10 g, Povidone K 30 4.00 g, glycerin 2.00 g, carbomer 0.80 g, sodium hydroxide solution 1.20 g, panthenol 0.50 g, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.80 g, fragrance 0.20 g, preservative 1.00 g, hydrolyzed keratin 0.40 g. Dissolve Povidone K 30 in the water, disperse the carbomer, add glycerin, neutralize with the sodium hydroxide solution, premix fragrance with the solubilizer and add it, then panthenol, keratin and the preservative, and check the pH at about 6.

Humidity and hold

Because PVP is water-soluble, its hold is strongest in dry air and softer in high humidity. For humid climates, combine it with a less moisture sensitive polymer or raise the dose slightly.

Mousses

Hair mousses use PVP at the lower end of the range for light hold and volume, or higher for curly and coarse hair. Dissolve it in the water phase together with a mild foaming agent, fill into an aerosol or a foaming pump, and test the hold on dry and wet hair.

Storage

Store in a dry, cool place in a tightly closed container. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.