Pau D'arco Hydroglycolic Extract

Pau D'arco extract at a glance

Pau D'arco Hydroglycolic Extract is a water-soluble plant extract made from the bark of Tabebuia avellanedae, a South American tree also known as lapacho or taheebo. The French producer extracts the bark in a mix of water and propylene glycol, which gives the INCI Aqua, Propylene Glycol, Tabebuia Avellanedae Bark Extract. The liquid is dark brown, carries a characteristic woody odor and is used at 1 to 5% in the active phase of a formula. It is a classic botanical for brands that like ingredients with a story from the rainforest and a long tradition of use.

The plant behind the extract

The pau d'arco tree grows in the forests of Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay and is famous for its hard wood and pink to purple flowers. Its inner bark has been brewed as a tea in South America for generations, and that tradition is what most consumers know. In cosmetics the bark extract is valued as a botanical with a warm, earthy character that fits purifying, balancing and comforting product concepts. Keep the claims on the pack cosmetic, for example a fresher feeling scalp, balanced looking skin or comfortable feet.

Why a hydroglycolic extract

A hydroglycolic extract is made with water and a glycol rather than alcohol or oil. This has practical advantages for a formulator. The extract pours easily, dissolves directly in water, needs no heating and does not add alcohol to a product. Propylene glycol also acts as a humectant, so it brings a small moisturizing benefit of its own. The trade off is that the extract cannot go into an anhydrous oil serum or a balm without an emulsifier.

How to formulate

Dose and addition

Use 1 to 5% of the finished product. Add the extract to the water phase of a gel or tonic, or to an emulsion during cool-down below 40 °C. Stir until the color is even.

Color and odor

The dark brown color is the main limit. In white creams start at 1 to 2% and check the shade, or pick a cream base that already has a warm tone. Clay masks, brown sugar scrubs, men's care and scalp products hide the color well. The woody odor is mild and is easy to cover with a light fragrance.

Product ideas

The extract fits scalp tonics, shampoos for oily scalps, balancing face masks with clay, foot creams and refreshing foot sprays, body lotions and men's aftershave balms. For a purifying mask it combines well with zinc PCA and allantoin, which add a sebum balancing and soothing profile. You can compare other plant extracts in our botanical extracts section, where every listing shows its INCI and base.

Sample recipe: pau d'arco clay mask, 100 g

Distilled water 63.80 g, kaolin 20.00 g, bentonite 4.00 g, glycerin 5.00 g, Pau D'arco Hydroglycolic Extract 4.00 g, xanthan gum 0.50 g, panthenol 1.00 g, preservative 1.00 g, fragrance 0.20 g, citric acid solution 0.50 g. Disperse xanthan in glycerin, add to water and stir until smooth, sprinkle in the clays, add panthenol, the extract, preservative and fragrance, and adjust to about pH 5.5.

Stability tips

Plant extracts change color slowly in light and heat, so pack finished products in opaque containers where possible and run a four week stability test at 40 °C. Check odor and pH at each point and adjust fragrance if needed.

Labeling the extract

On the ingredient list the extract appears as its three INCI parts, placed by weight: Aqua, Propylene Glycol and Tabebuia Avellanedae Bark Extract. In a product with 4% of the extract, water and propylene glycol from the extract merge with the water and glycols already in the formula. Brands that prefer a glycol-free label should note that propylene glycol is part of this material.

Storage

Keep the extract tightly closed, in a dry and dark place, at no more than 20 °C as the supplier advises. The certificate of analysis for each lot comes with the order.