Mushroom Extract

Mushroom Extract at a glance

This Mushroom Extract is a natural pore corrector from France. Its INCI is Water, Larch Sponge Mushroom Extract, Butylene Glycol. It is a brown, water-soluble liquid used at 2 to 5% of the finished product. The supplier calls it a 100% natural plant based active ingredient and describes three effects: it helps pores look smaller, mattifies the skin and moisturizes.

The larch sponge

The larch sponge, also known as agaricon, is a large mushroom that grows on the trunks of larch trees in the mountain forests of Europe and Asia. It can live for 50 years or more, which makes it one of the longest living perennial mushrooms in the world. It has a long history of traditional use. The mushroom is rich in agaricic acid, the compound that gives the extract its mattifying and pore tightening character.

Tightening without drying

Classic pore products often rely on alcohol or strong astringents. They give a quick matte look but leave the skin dry and tight, and dry skin then tends to produce more oil. The supplier stresses that this extract works differently. Its astringent, pore tightening effect does not dry the skin. Instead it tightens the look of the surface, makes pores less visible and leaves the skin feeling fresh, hydrated and soft.

How to formulate

Add the extract to the water phase at cool-down or to a ready gel base. It is water-soluble and works in clear serums, toners and gels as well as in light emulsions. Keep the finished product at about pH 5 to 6. The brown color gives a light tint to clear products, which suits a natural story. For a complete pore care serum, combine it with niacinamide and with hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate for hydration. More botanical actives are listed in the botanical extracts section.

Dosing

Daily toners and light fluids use 2 to 3%. Pore corrector serums, primers and mattifying gels use 4 to 5%.

Product ideas

Pore corrector serums, mattifying primers, T-zone gels, balancing toners, light day fluids for combination skin, makeup base gels and refreshing masks are the main concepts.

Sample recipe: pore corrector serum, 100 g

Distilled water 83.70 g, Mushroom Extract 5.00 g, niacinamide 3.00 g, glycerin 2.00 g, propanediol 3.00 g, hydroxyethylcellulose 0.80 g, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate 0.20 g, panthenol 0.50 g, preservative 1.00 g, citric acid solution 0.80 g. Dissolve niacinamide in the water, disperse the cellulose, add glycerin, propanediol, panthenol and hyaluronate, add the mushroom extract and the preservative, and adjust to about pH 5.5.

Matte primers

A pore corrector extract is a natural fit for makeup primers. In a gel primer with a little silica or starch, the extract helps the skin look smoother and more matte, so foundation sits more evenly over the pores.

Testing claims

Pore claims are best supported with standard photos or skin imaging of the nose and cheeks and sebum readings before and after four weeks. A self assessment of shine and freshness adds the consumer view.

A natural story

The larch sponge is an unusual ingredient with a strong story: a long lived mushroom from mountain larch forests. This fits natural and clean beauty brands and is easy to tell on the pack and in marketing.

Using it in a routine

Recommend the pore corrector after cleansing, morning and evening, on the T-zone or the whole face. Under makeup it helps reduce shine through the day.

Safety notes

The supplier asks for a sensitivity test of the finished product, for example a test application on the inner elbow.

Storage

Store in a dry, dark place in a tightly closed container. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.