LIPO CERAMIDYL 20

LIPO CERAMIDYL 20 at a glance

LIPO CERAMIDYL 20 is a barrier lipid complex from Spain. It is a white to beige paste that dissolves in oils and other lipids and is used at 1 to 2.5% of the finished product. The supplier names the ceramides as types 4 and 5, supplied as glycosphingolipids. The paste must be kept in the refrigerator and must not be frozen.

The barrier in three lipids

The outer layer of the skin works like a brick wall. The cells are the bricks, and a mix of lipids fills the spaces between them like mortar. When one of them is missing, the barrier weakens, water escapes and irritants get in more easily.

What is inside

Glycosphingolipids

Glycosphingolipids are sugar bound sphingolipids, the family to which ceramides belong. They supply ceramides of types 4 and 5 to the skin.

Phospholipids help the lipids arrange in layers and carry them into the skin surface.

The carrier

Ethylhexyl stearate, a light ester, and methyl glucose isostearate, a mild emulsifier, keep the lipids in a smooth paste that blends into the oil phase.

What it does

The supplier lists a broad barrier profile. It strengthens the barrier function, helps dry and sensitive skin look and feel restored and reduces water loss through the skin. It improves the skin's resistance to irritating factors such as surfactants, sun and oxidative stress. It helps dry, rough and sun stressed skin look smoother, smooths the look of wrinkles and moisturizes mature skin. In hair care it helps restore the cuticle and the structure of the hair.

How to formulate

Add the paste to the oil phase. It dissolves in oils and lipids. Warm it gently with the oils rather than heating it for a long time. In emulsions, keep the pH at about 5 to 6, close to the natural pH of the skin. A complete barrier cream can combine it with ceramide NP and phytosphingosine. More barrier actives are listed in the cosmetic actives section.

Dosing

Daily creams and lotions use 1 to 1.5%. Intensive barrier creams for very dry skin and appearance support care use up to 2.5%. Hair care uses about 1%.

Product ideas

barrier care in cosmetic formulas creams, creams for dry and sensitive skin, after sun appearance support care, mature skin creams, hand creams for frequent washing, body lotions for very dry skin and hair masks for damaged hair are the main concepts.

Sample recipe: barrier care in cosmetic formulas cream, 100 g

Distilled water 70.50 g, glycerin 5.00 g, glyceryl stearate citrate 4.00 g, cetearyl alcohol 3.00 g, caprylic/capric triglyceride 6.00 g, shea butter 4.00 g, squalane 3.00 g, LIPO CERAMIDYL 20 2.00 g, xanthan gum 0.30 g, panthenol 1.00 g, preservative 1.00 g, citric acid solution 0.20 g. Heat the water phase and the oil phase with LIPO CERAMIDYL 20 to 75 °C, emulsify and cool, add panthenol and the preservative below 40 °C, and adjust to about pH 5.5.

Cleansing stress

Surfactants in cleansers and shampoos wash away part of the barrier lipids. The supplier notes improved resistance to surfactants. A hand cream used after washing, or a body lotion after the shower, is a good place for barrier lipids.

Cold storage

Keep the paste in the refrigerator, but never freeze it. Let it reach room temperature before opening, and close the pack tightly after use.

Storage

Store in the refrigerator, not frozen, in a tightly closed container. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.