eCapsules ADC

eCapsules ADC at a glance

eCapsules ADC is a delivery system and an active in one. It is a viscous green dispersion in which chlorella, grape seed oil and brown algae extract are held in solid lipid particles built from cocoa butter and lecithin. The INCI is Water, Glycerin, Chlorella Vulgaris Powder, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Lecithin, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter, Xanthan Gum, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, with Benzyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Caprylate and Glyceryl Undecylenate as additives. It is produced in France, is eco certified and is used at 2% of the finished product. The pH is 6.0 to 8.0.

What a solid lipid delivery system is

Many valuable skin care ingredients are oil-soluble, and in a typical emulsion they stay trapped in the oil droplets. Solid lipid particles are tiny spheres of a lipid that is solid at room temperature, here cocoa butter, stabilized with lecithin. They hold oil-soluble actives inside and release them gradually on the skin. The supplier designed eCapsules specifically to overcome the limits in delivering fat soluble actives. For the formulator, the practical result is an ingredient that disperses in water based products and brings oil-soluble benefits with it.

The actives inside

Chlorella is a green microalga rich in chlorophyll, proteins and carotenoids, which gives the dispersion its green color. Grape seed oil is rich in linoleic acid and polyphenols. Ascophyllum nodosum, a brown seaweed from the North Atlantic, adds marine polysaccharides and antioxidants. Together they build a profile aimed at the delicate eye area and at aging skin.

What it does

The supplier positions eCapsules ADC for the eye area and for appearance-focused cosmetic care. Products with it help dark circles look lighter, make wrinkles look less deep, support hydration and skin renewal and add antioxidant protection against daily stress. Keep the claims visual and support any numbers with your own testing of the finished product.

How to formulate

Add eCapsules ADC at 2% at cool-down, below about 40 °C, with gentle stirring. Avoid high shear after adding it, so the particles remain intact. It works in both oil in water and water in oil emulsions, and also in gels, lotions, milks and sprays. Keep the finished product at a pH of about 5.5 to 7. In an eye cream it fits next to caffeine for a fresher look and next to a peptide such as acetyl tetrapeptide-5 for a classic eye contour story. Find more appearance-focused cosmetic and eye care actives in the cosmetic actives section.

Product ideas

Eye creams and eye gels for the look of dark circles, anti-wrinkle creams, night serums, light day lotions, cooling eye sprays and sheet mask essences are the main uses. The green color is subtle at 2% but can add a natural tint to clear gels.

Sample recipe: brightening eye cream, 100 g

Distilled water 74.50 g, glycerin 4.00 g, glyceryl stearate citrate 4.00 g, cetearyl alcohol 2.00 g, caprylic/capric triglyceride 6.00 g, squalane 3.00 g, xanthan gum 0.30 g, caffeine 1.00 g, eCapsules ADC 2.00 g, panthenol 1.00 g, preservative 1.00 g, citric acid solution 1.20 g. Dissolve caffeine in hot water, heat water and oil phases to 75 °C, emulsify, cool to below 40 °C, add eCapsules ADC, panthenol and the preservative with gentle stirring and adjust to about pH 6.

Labeling

The ingredient list is long because each part of the system has its own INCI name, and the additives benzyl alcohol, glyceryl caprylate and glyceryl undecylenate also appear. Brands can describe the ingredient as a chlorella and grape seed delivery system in marketing copy. Natural brands should check that the eco certification of the material matches their own certification scheme.

Storage

Store in a cool, dry place protected from light. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.