AC Kerazyme

AC Kerazyme at a glance

AC Kerazyme is a natural smoothing ingredient for hair, made in the USA. Its INCI is Hydrolyzed Keratin, Trametes Versicolor Extract. It is a cloudy, viscous liquid with a yellow to amber color. The supplier positions it as a keratin based, formaldehyde free way to smooth hair. It is used at 1 to 10% of the finished product, added below 40 °C, and it works in a gentle pH range of 4 to 7.

The idea behind it

Classic salon smoothing treatments rely on formaldehyde releasing systems and very hot flat irons. Formaldehyde is an irritating vapor, and the method also limits styling choices afterwards. AC Kerazyme follows a different path. It smooths hair through a natural enzyme and keratin, at mild pH, and it helps protect hair during heat styling instead of stressing it.

Two parts, two jobs

The mushroom enzyme

Trametes versicolor, also called turkey tail, is a mushroom that produces laccase, an oxidizing enzyme. In hair, laccase works on the disulfide bonds that hold keratin chains together. The supplier describes this as a way to help the hair fiber hold a smoother shape while looking stronger.

Hydrolyzed keratin

The keratin hydrolysate conditions and enriches the hair fiber. It fills in the look of damaged areas, adds softness and improves combing. Together the two parts give smooth, manageable hair that keeps its ability to curl or wave when styled.

How to formulate

Add AC Kerazyme to the water phase below 40 °C. It dissolves in water and mixes with 50% alcohol, glycerin and propylene glycol, so it also works in sprays and leave-in serums. Keep the finished product between pH 4 and 7. For extra slip, combine it with hydrolyzed keratin and silk amino acids. More hair care ingredients are in the cosmetic actives section.

Product ideas

The supplier lists conditioners, masks and complete hair care programs. Popular concepts are smoothing masks, leave-in smoothing sprays, heat styling protection serums, anti-frizz conditioners and at-home smoothing kits with a shampoo, mask and leave-in.

Sample recipe: smoothing hair mask, 100 g

Distilled water 75.30 g, cetearyl alcohol 6.00 g, behentrimonium chloride 2.50 g, caprylic/capric triglyceride 3.00 g, glycerin 2.00 g, AC Kerazyme 8.00 g, panthenol 1.00 g, preservative 1.00 g, fragrance 0.50 g, lactic acid solution 0.70 g. Heat water and oil phases to 75 °C, emulsify and cool, add AC Kerazyme below 40 °C with panthenol, the preservative and fragrance, and adjust to about pH 4.5.

Using heat

Many smoothing programs finish with a blow dryer or flat iron. With AC Kerazyme the heat is used for styling, not to drive a harsh reaction, and the keratin part helps protect the fiber during that step.

Safety testing

The supplier asks for a sensitivity check on finished products, for example a test application on the inner elbow before full use.

Building a smoothing program

A complete at-home smoothing program usually has three steps. A gentle, sulfate free shampoo cleans without stripping the hair. A rinse-off mask with a higher dose of AC Kerazyme, for example 8 to 10%, is left on for several minutes and then rinsed. A leave-in spray or serum with 2 to 4% keeps the smoothing effect between washes and adds heat protection before blow drying. Repeating the program once or twice a week builds a smoother, softer and more manageable look over time.

Claims to use

Use cosmetic language that matches the supplier data: smoother looking hair, less frizz, softer feel, easier styling, stronger looking hair and help in protecting hair from styling damage. Avoid any promise that the effect is permanent or that it changes the hair structure for good.

Storage

Store in a cool, dark place in a tightly closed container. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.