Willowherb

Willowherb at a glance

Willowherb is a water extract of Epilobium angustifolium, a tall plant with bright pink flower spikes that grows across the northern forests of Canada, Scandinavia and Russia. It is also called fireweed, because it is one of the first plants to grow back after forest fires. The extract uses the flowers, leaves and stems, and its INCI is Water, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract. The liquid is amber, clear or slightly hazy, comes from Canada and has a pH of 4.3 to 5.5. It is used at 1 to 3% of the finished product.

A northern plant in skin care

Willowherb has a long history in northern folk traditions and is known as a tea plant. In skin care it is valued for its calming and balancing character. Products with willowherb help skin look calmer and less red, feel more comfortable and look more matte and even. It is a good fit for skin that looks oily and shiny and for sensitive skin, two groups that often overlap.

Where it fits

The supplier lists a clear set of uses. Mattifying products and products for the look of enlarged pores benefit from its balancing character. Toners and cleansers are natural formats. Products for sensitive skin and face and body creams use it for comfort. Teen care is a strong area, since young skin often looks oily and is easily irritated. Light day creams for hot weather round out the list.

How to formulate

Add the extract to the water phase of a toner, gel or serum, or to an emulsion at cool-down below 40 °C. Use 1 to 3%, and follow the recommended dose. Its pH of 4.3 to 5.5 matches most face care, so it rarely needs adjustment. A slight haze is normal for a plant extract and does not affect quality. For a balancing toner, it combines well with zinc PCA for a matte look and with niacinamide for a more even looking tone. More balancing and comfort ingredients are listed in the cosmetic actives section.

Product ideas

Balancing toners, foaming cleansers for oily skin, mattifying gels, light fluids, products for the look of enlarged pores, comfort creams for sensitive skin, teen skin care ranges and summer day creams are the main uses. A northern botanical line built around fireweed is an attractive concept.

Sample recipe: balancing willowherb toner, 100 g

Distilled water 89.30 g, Willowherb 3.00 g, glycerin 2.00 g, niacinamide 2.00 g, zinc PCA 0.50 g, panthenol 0.50 g, solubilizer 0.50 g, preservative 1.00 g, fragrance 0.20 g, citric acid solution 1.00 g. Dissolve niacinamide, zinc PCA and panthenol in the water with glycerin, add the extract, premix fragrance with solubilizer and add it with the preservative, and adjust to about pH 5.

Labeling and story

On the ingredient list it appears as Water and Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract. In marketing copy, willowherb or fireweed extract are both accurate. The image of a plant that grows back after fire is a strong story of resilience and renewal.

Testing claims

Matte and shine claims can be supported with blotting papers or sebum measurements before and after a few hours. Comfort claims for sensitive skin are best supported with a consumer panel and a patch test under dermatological control.

Teen and summer care

Young skin often looks oily on the forehead, nose and chin and reacts easily to harsh products. A short formula with willowherb, a mild cleanser and a light gel moisturizer gives a gentle routine that teens like. In hot weather, the same light textures suit adults who want a matte finish without a heavy cream.

Storage

Store in a cool, dark place in a tightly closed container. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.