TEGO Derm CBS

TEGO Derm CBS at a glance

TEGO Derm CBS is an opalescent liquid from Germany. Its INCI is Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine, PPG-3 Myristyl Ether. The active part is salicyloyl phytosphingosine, and PPG-3 myristyl ether is a light emollient that keeps it liquid and easy to dose. The supplier lists rejuvenating cosmetics, anti-age products as a firming ingredient, skin renewal care, soothing cosmetics and products used before and after sun exposure. Use 2 to 10% of the finished product.

Two ideas in one molecule

Phytosphingosine is a sphingoid base, one of the building blocks of ceramides in the upper layer of the skin. Salicylic acid is famous from exfoliating care. In salicyloyl phytosphingosine the two are joined by a chemical bond. The result is a lipid molecule that carries the familiar salicylic group but does not act like a free acid. It fits gentle anti-age concepts where formulators want a skin related lipid with a modern, high tech story.

The carrier

PPG-3 myristyl ether is a clear emollient with a light, dry skin feel. In this blend it dissolves the active and makes the material pourable at room temperature. It also adds slip to the oil phase, so creams feel smooth without heaviness.

Formulating

Add TEGO Derm CBS to the oil phase. It mixes with esters, triglycerides and light hydrocarbons. In hot process emulsions it can go into the warm oil phase, or into the cooling emulsion below 40 °C if you prefer to keep heat exposure short. Check compatibility with your emulsifier, because the opalescent liquid can slightly change the look of very clear systems. A firming cream can pair it with hyaluronic acid in the water phase and with coenzyme Q10 for an antioxidant story. More anti-age actives are listed in the cosmetic actives section.

Dosing

Light day fluids and after sun lotions usually work at 2 to 3%. Rich firming creams, night creams and intensive anti-age concepts use 5 to 10%, which is the top of the supplier range.

Sample recipe: firming night cream, 100 g

Distilled water 66.70 g, glycerin 4.00 g, cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate 5.00 g, cetyl alcohol 2.00 g, caprylic/capric triglyceride 8.00 g, shea butter 3.00 g, TEGO Derm CBS 5.00 g, xanthan gum 0.30 g, panthenol 1.00 g, tocopherol 0.50 g, preservative 1.00 g, fragrance 0.30 g, citric acid solution 0.20 g, sodium hyaluronate solution 1 percent 3.00 g. Heat the water and oil phases to 75 °C, emulsify, cool to 40 °C, add TEGO Derm CBS, panthenol, tocopherol, hyaluronate solution, preservative and fragrance, and adjust to about pH 5.5.

After-sun care

The supplier names products used before and after sun exposure. Before sun, a light oil or lotion with TEGO Derm CBS prepares the skin with a caring lipid. After sun, a cooling gel cream with aloe and the active gives a soothing, comfortable feel.

Soothing care

For sensitive, easily irritated looking skin, combine TEGO Derm CBS with calming ingredients such as bisabolol and panthenol in a fragrance free base. Gentle emulsifiers and a short ingredient list suit this kind of product best.

Skin renewal concepts

Skin renewal care aims at a smoother, fresher surface without harsh exfoliation. The bound salicyloyl group fits this message well. Night creams and serums for a more even, refined looking surface are typical uses.

Texture tips

At the higher end of the range the emollient carrier becomes noticeable in the skin feel. Balance it with a lighter ester or reduce other oils, so the cream stays elegant and absorbs well.

Storage

Store tightly closed in a cool, dark place. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.