Sphingosomes Moist

Sphingosomes Moist at a glance

Sphingosomes Moist is a moisturizing vesicle system from Germany. Its INCI is Aqua, Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, Mannitol, Lecithin, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate. It is a water-soluble liquid with a pH of 5.5 to 7.5, used at 5 to 10% of the finished product. It was developed for cleansing and makeup removing products, rinse-off and leave-on, and for care of dry and sensitive skin.

What is inside

Three humectants

Sodium lactate and sodium PCA are two key parts of the skin's natural moisturizing factor, the mix of small molecules that holds water in the upper layer of the skin. Mannitol is a sugar alcohol that binds water and helps protect the skin from drying out.

Lecithin vesicles

Lecithin is a natural phospholipid. In water it forms tiny vesicles, small bubbles with a lipid shell. These vesicles carry the humectants and help them spread evenly on the skin.

A mild surfactant

Sodium cocoyl glutamate is a very mild surfactant made from coconut fatty acids and the amino acid glutamic acid. It helps lift makeup and dirt while staying gentle on the skin.

Why moisturize in a cleanser

Every cleansing step removes some of the skin's own moisture and lipids. For dry and sensitive skin this can lead to tightness and discomfort after washing. Sphingosomes Moist brings humectants into the cleanser itself, so the skin feels soft and comfortable after cleansing instead of tight. In micellar waters, which are often left on the skin, this is even more important.

How to formulate

Add Sphingosomes Moist to the water phase at the end of the process, at room temperature or below 40 °C. In micellar waters it can be combined with a mild solubilizer and a gentle surfactant. In cleansing milks, add it to the water phase after emulsification. Keep the finished product between pH 5.5 and 7.5. A cleanser for sensitive skin can add panthenol, and a hydrating toner can add betaine. More gentle care ingredients are in the cosmetic actives section.

Product ideas

The supplier lists rinse-off and leave-on makeup removers for dry and sensitive skin, micellar waters, cleansing milks and lotions, cleansing foams and gels, bath oils, clear leave-on micellar cleansers, moisturizing toners, face mists and face wipes.

Sample recipe: moisturizing micellar water, 100 g

Distilled water 84.10 g, Sphingosomes Moist 8.00 g, glycerin 2.00 g, poloxamer 184 2.00 g, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides 2.00 g, panthenol 0.50 g, preservative 1.00 g, citric acid solution 0.40 g. Mix the water with glycerin, add the poloxamer and PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides and stir until clear, add Sphingosomes Moist and panthenol, then the preservative, and adjust to about pH 6.

Face wipes

Wet wipes are one of the most demanding cleansing formats, because the lotion stays on the skin. A wipe lotion with 5 to 8% Sphingosomes Moist, a mild solubilizer and panthenol cleans gently and leaves a soft, moisturized feel without rinsing.

Eye makeup removal

Eye makeup removers need to be especially mild. The vesicle system and the amino acid surfactant suit gentle eye makeup removers for sensitive eyes. Test the finished product for eye comfort.

Bath oils

The supplier also lists bath oils. In a dispersing bath oil, a small amount of the system helps the bath water feel softer and leaves the skin moisturized after bathing.

Safety notes

Follow the dose and test the finished product for skin compatibility.

Storage

Store in a cool, dark place in a closed container. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.