Polyglutamic Acid

Polyglutamic Acid at a glance

Polyglutamic Acid is a powder that dissolves in water. It is a long chain of glutamic acid units, made by fermentation. In cosmetics it is known as a strong humectant and film former: it holds water and leaves a soft, smooth, moisturizing film on the skin and hair. The supplier specification lists hair care, masks, shampoos, conditioners, hair balms, creams, light emulsions and age-defying products. Confirm grade and molecular weight on the supplier CoA.

Polyglutamic acid and hyaluronic acid

Polyglutamic acid is often compared with hyaluronic acid. Both are large water-binding molecules that give a smooth, plump feel. Many hydrating serums combine the two, using them together for a layered moisture story and a pleasant texture.

Product formats

Hydrating serums

Light serums with a silky feel.

Creams and light emulsions

Moisturizers with a smooth finish.

Masks

Sheet and cream masks.

Hair care

Shampoos, conditioners and balms for soft, smooth hair.

Processing

Sprinkle the powder slowly into the water while stirring to avoid lumps, or pre-wet it in glycerin. Let it hydrate fully. It thickens water slightly, so adjust other thickeners accordingly. Add it to the water phase before or after heating as the supplier directs.

Good partners

High molecular weight hyaluronic acid and Trehalose build a hydration complex. Ectoin adds a protective story. Browse more in the actives catalog.

Testing

Measure skin hydration before and after use, and assess skin feel for stickiness.

Claims

Deep hydration; skin feels smooth and plump; hair feels soft and smooth.

Characteristics

Form: powder. Solubility: water. Type: polyglutamic acid humectant. Listed uses: hair care, masks, shampoos, conditioners, hair balms, creams, light emulsions, age-defying products. Grade: supplier CoA.

Original recipe: hydrating serum, 100 g

Distilled water 89.80 g, glycerin 4.00 g, polyglutamic acid 0.50 g, hyaluronic acid 0.20 g, trehalose 2.00 g, panthenol 1.50 g, phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin 1.00 g, allantoin 0.20 g, sodium citrate 0.30 g, citric acid 0.50 g. Pre-wet the polyglutamic and hyaluronic acids in glycerin, add to the water and stir until clear, then add the remaining ingredients and adjust the pH.

Texture tips

Higher levels can feel tacky. Keep the level modest and balance the texture with light emollients in creams. In serums, combine it with a little hyaluronic acid for slip.

Hair care

On hair, polyglutamic acid helps with softness and manageability. Add it to conditioners and leave-in balms.

Range ideas

A hydrating serum, a cream and a conditioner can share polyglutamic acid.

Lot records

Keep each CoA with the batch file and note the lot used.

Choosing the grade

Polyglutamic acid is sold in different molecular weights. Higher weights form a more noticeable film and feel richer, while lower weights feel lighter. Ask the supplier which grade is supplied and how it behaves in water, and record it with the formula.

Pairing with humectants

Glycerin, trehalose and sugars add more water-binding capacity, while a small amount of an emollient keeps the after-feel comfortable. In dry climates, a cream on top of a hydrating serum helps keep the moisture in the skin.

Lab tip

Allow the hydrated polymer to rest for about thirty minutes before measuring viscosity, since it keeps swelling after mixing. A clear, smooth solution without fish-eyes shows that it has dispersed properly.

Storage

Store closed in a dry place. Close the container after use.