Aqua Licorice Extract PT

Licorice root has a long history in traditional practices and in modern skincare, where it is valued for products aimed at an even-looking tone and a calm-looking complexion. Many cosmetic licorice extracts are oil-soluble, which limits them to emulsions and oils. Aqua Licorice Extract PT is a water-soluble grade, making it easy to use in toners, serums and gels.

Botanical background

Licorice comes from the roots of Glycyrrhiza plants, members of the legume family. The root contains a range of compounds that are studied for their behavior in skin care. Different extraction methods concentrate different groups of compounds, which is why licorice extracts vary widely. The exact INCI, plant part, solvent and marker content of this grade are listed on the supplier CoA for each lot.

Specifications from the supplier specification

Liquid, soluble in water. Applications: creams, serums, lotions and tonics.

Why a water-soluble grade

In clear toners and gel serums, oil-soluble extracts need solubilizers and can cloud the product. A water-soluble licorice extract dissolves directly in the water phase, keeps the product clear and allows simple, cold-process formulas. For brands that produce small batches, this saves time and equipment.

Product formats

Tone-evening serum

Licorice is a classic partner for niacinamide in serums for a more even-looking tone.

Calming tonic

A light tonic for skin that looks red after cleansing, with licorice, panthenol and a humectant.

Creams and lotions

Day creams and body lotions with a tone and comfort angle. The extract goes into the cooled emulsion.

Formulating guidance

Add the extract during cool-down and check the finished pH. Plant extracts can bring a light color and a mild odor, so check appearance and fragrance. A complementary ingredient for comfort-focused products is bisabolol, which goes into the oil phase or a solubilized premix. Other botanical ingredients are available in botanical extracts.

Claims

Use cosmetic language: more even-looking tone, calmer-looking, more comfortable skin. Support claims with standardized photos and consumer perception tests on the finished product. Recommend daily, since sunlight affects how even skin tone looks.

Quality and documentation

Plant extracts vary with harvest and processing. Record the lot number and marker content from each CoA, check color and odor on arrival and keep retained samples. If a finished product changes color between batches, the CoA records help identify whether the extract is the cause.

Range ideas

A calm and even range could include a licorice tonic, a niacinamide and licorice serum and a light day cream. Short ingredient lists and fragrance-free versions appeal to customers with sensitive-feeling skin.

Choosing levels and partners

Plant extracts perform best at levels that the supplier has tested, so use the CoA guidance as the starting point and adjust in small steps. In tone-focused products, combine the licorice extract with a vitamin C derivative or niacinamide rather than raising a single ingredient very high. In comfort products, pair it with panthenol, allantoin and a gentle humectant. Avoid strong acids and high levels of alcohol in formulas aimed at sensitive-feeling skin, since they may undermine the calm-looking result the customer expects.

Original recipe: licorice tone tonic, 100 g

Purified water 86.90 g, Aqua Licorice Extract PT 2.00 g as an example level per CoA, glycerin 3.00 g, butylene glycol 2.00 g, niacinamide 3.00 g, panthenol 1.00 g, allantoin 0.10 g, sodium hyaluronate 0.10 g, preservative 1.00 g, citric acid solution 0.90 g. Dissolve the hyaluronate in glycols and add to water. Add niacinamide, panthenol, allantoin and the extract, then the preservative. Adjust pH to about 5.5 to 6.0.

Storage

Keep tightly closed in a cool, dark place. Reseal immediately after use.