AHA Extract 44

AHA Extract 44 at a glance

AHA Extract 44 is a natural source of fruit acids. It combines extracts of bilberry, sugar cane, sugar maple and orange, plants that are naturally rich in alpha hydroxy acids, into one liquid with a high acid content. The INCI is Water, Vaccinium Myrtillus Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Acer Saccharum Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Extract. The supplier specifies minimum levels of 13% lactic acid, 13% citric acid, 10% glycolic acid, 4% malic acid and 4% tartaric acid, about 44% in total, which explains the name. The liquid is yellow to orange, dissolves in water and is made in France.

Five acids, one complex

Each acid in the blend has its own character. Glycolic acid, from sugar cane, is the smallest AHA and the most active one. Lactic acid is gentler and also helps the skin hold water. Citric acid, from citrus fruit, supports the pH of the blend and gives a bright, fresh feel. Malic acid, typical of apples and berries, and tartaric acid, from grapes, are larger molecules that act more softly. Together they give an even, balanced exfoliation that leaves skin smoother, brighter and fresher looking, with a more refined texture.

Dosing by product

The supplier gives detailed levels. Eye creams and lip scrubs use 1 to 2%. Toners and micellar waters use 3 to 5%. Anti-wrinkle creams use 2.5 to 5%, active serums 5 to 6% and masks 2 to 5%. Overall, cosmetic formulas stay between 1 and 10%. Professional peel solutions with a short contact time can use 10 to 100%, but those belong in trained hands. Whatever the dose, measure the pH of the finished product, because pH decides how much free acid is available and how strong the effect will be.

Formulating tips

Setting the pH

Leave-on daily products usually sit at pH 3.5 to 4.5. Gentler, more moisturizing products can stay at pH 4.5 to 5.5. Adjust with sodium hydroxide, arginine or triethanolamine after adding the complex.

A stable base

Choose thickeners and emulsifiers that tolerate low pH, such as hydroxyethylcellulose, xanthan gum and nonionic emulsifiers. Add the complex near the end, then correct the pH.

Comfort and partners

Balance the acids with soothing and moisturizing ingredients. Panthenol and betaine are good choices. For a stronger renewing serum, gluconolactone adds a gentle polyhydroxy acid. Find more plant based renewing extracts in the botanical extracts section.

Hair and body uses

The supplier also lists bath foams, cleansers, gels and hair masks. In hair masks fruit acids help smooth the cuticle and add shine. In body lotions they soften rough areas such as elbows and knees, and in foot creams they help smooth dry heels.

Sample recipe: fruit acid renewing serum, 100 g

Distilled water 82.80 g, AHA Extract 44 6.00 g, glycerin 4.00 g, betaine 2.00 g, panthenol 1.00 g, hydroxyethylcellulose 0.80 g, preservative 1.00 g, sodium hydroxide solution 2.40 g. Disperse hydroxyethylcellulose in water, add glycerin, betaine and panthenol, then the fruit acid complex and the preservative, and adjust to pH 3.8 to 4.2 with sodium hydroxide, measuring carefully.

Safe use

Fruit acids make skin more sensitive to the sun. Advise daily a patch test for new users, and start sensitive skin types on low dose products. Peel products need clear instructions on contact time.

Labeling

On the label the complex appears as Water and the four plant extracts. The fruit acids come from the extracts themselves, so they do not appear as separate INCI names. Marketing copy can speak of natural fruit acids from bilberry, sugar cane, maple and orange, which is accurate and attractive.

Storage

Store in a cool, dark place in a tightly closed container. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.