AC Plant Keratin PF

AC Plant Keratin PF at a glance

AC Plant Keratin PF is a plant based protein complex from Italy that gives hair and skin the conditioning benefits usually linked with keratin. Its INCI is Hydrolyzed Corn Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein. It is a yellow, water-soluble liquid used at 0.5 to 5% of the finished product. The three proteins are cut into fragments with a molecular weight of about 1.5 to 4 kDa, a size that balances film forming with good contact on the hair surface.

A plant answer to keratin

Animal keratin hydrolysates are popular in hair care, but many brands now want fully vegan formulas. Plant proteins can do much of the same work. Corn, soy and wheat proteins each have a different amino acid profile, and the supplier notes that when they are combined they improve each other's moisturizing and conditioning properties. The result is a complex that behaves like a keratin replacement in shampoos, masks and leave-in products.

What it does

On hair

The protein fragments adsorb onto the hair surface and form a light, flexible film. Hair feels smoother and softer, combs more easily and looks fuller and shinier. The film also helps hold moisture in the fiber.

On skin

On skin the complex moisturizes and leaves a soft, silky film. The supplier also notes a calming effect and antioxidant protection, so it suits care for dry and sensitive looking skin.

How to formulate

Add the complex to the water phase, ideally at cool-down below 40 °C. It is clear and water-soluble, so it works in clear shampoos and sprays as well as in creams. In conditioners it pairs well with panthenol. A plant oil such as camellia oil adds shine to masks. Find more vegan conditioning ingredients in the cosmetic actives section.

Product ideas

Vegan shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, leave-in sprays, curl creams, body washes, body lotions, hand creams and moisturizing face creams are the main uses.

Sample recipe: vegan leave-in spray, 100 g

Distilled water 90.40 g, AC Plant Keratin PF 4.00 g, glycerin 2.00 g, panthenol 1.00 g, polyquaternium-10 0.30 g, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.80 g, fragrance 0.20 g, preservative 1.00 g, citric acid solution 0.30 g. Disperse polyquaternium-10 in the water, add glycerin, panthenol and AC Plant Keratin PF, premix the fragrance with the solubilizer and add it, then the preservative, and adjust to about pH 5.

Why three proteins

Each plant protein brings its own profile. Wheat protein is known for film forming and volume. Soy protein contributes moisture and softness. Corn protein, rich in zein fragments, gives a smooth, slightly glossy film. Combining them gives a broader range of fragment sizes and amino acids, which the supplier credits with better moisturizing and conditioning than any single protein. For formulators this means one raw material instead of three, with a simpler label story.

In surfactant systems

Proteins also make cleansing products feel milder. In a shampoo or body wash, 1 to 2% of the complex adds a softer after feel and helps reduce the dry, squeaky feeling some surfactants leave on skin and hair. Add it after the surfactants are mixed, and check the viscosity, because proteins can slightly change the salt curve.

Labeling

The three protein names on the label tell a clear plant story. Note that wheat and soy appear in the INCI, which is relevant for allergen information in some markets.

Storage

Store in a dark, cool place in a tightly closed container at no more than 20 °C. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.