PoreAway

PoreAway at a glance

PoreAway is a pore refining active from France. Its INCI is Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum, Lecithin, Glycerin, Alcohol. It is an almost white, opaque liquid that dissolves in water. The supplier describes three benefits: it helps pores look visibly smaller, improves the look of skin firmness and removes oily shine. Use levels are 2 to 5%, depending on the product.

Mastic, the tears of Chios

Pistacia lentiscus is a small evergreen tree of the Mediterranean. On the Greek island of Chios, growers make small cuts in the bark, and the tree releases drops of a clear resin that harden into pale, glassy pieces, often called the tears of Chios. This resin, mastic, has been collected for thousands of years and is used in food, chewing gum and traditional care. In PoreAway the mastic gum is prepared with lecithin, glycerin and alcohol into a liquid that mixes into water based formulas.

Why pores look large

Pores look larger when they are filled with sebum and when the surrounding skin loses firmness. Oily skin shows wide, shiny pores on the nose, forehead and cheeks. Mature skin can show stretched, larger looking pores as it loses tone. PoreAway works on both sides: it helps reduce the look of shine and helps the skin around the pores look firmer.

The supplier's dose table

Mattifying creams use 2%. Creams for blemish prone skin use 3 to 4%. Lotions and cleansing milks use up to 5%. This gives a simple plan for a complete pore care line.

How to formulate

Add PoreAway to the water phase at cool-down, below 40 °C. It is opaque, so it suits creams, milks and lotions better than crystal clear gels. Shake or stir the pack before weighing. Keep the finished product at about pH 5 to 6. A mattifying day cream can add niacinamide, and a balancing lotion can add zinc PCA for oil control. More pore care actives are listed in the cosmetic actives section.

Product ideas

Mattifying day creams, pore refining serums, balancing lotions, cleansing milks for combination skin, toners for oily skin, primers for a smooth makeup base and creams for blemish prone skin are the main concepts.

Sample recipe: mattifying day cream, 100 g

Distilled water 76.20 g, glycerin 3.00 g, glyceryl stearate citrate 4.00 g, cetearyl alcohol 2.00 g, caprylic/capric triglyceride 5.00 g, isoamyl laurate 3.00 g, silica 1.00 g, xanthan gum 0.30 g, PoreAway 2.00 g, niacinamide 2.00 g, preservative 1.00 g, citric acid solution 0.50 g. Heat water and oil phases to 75 °C, emulsify, add silica and cool, dissolve niacinamide in a little water and add it below 40 °C with PoreAway and the preservative, and adjust to about pH 5.5.

Light textures for oily skin

Oily and combination skin prefer light textures. Choose light esters instead of heavy oils, add a little silica or starch for a matte finish and keep the cream thin enough to spread easily. A fluid or gel cream with PoreAway at 2% gives a matte, comfortable result through the day.

Testing claims

Pore and shine claims are best supported with standard photos, skin imaging of the nose and cheeks and sebum readings before and after four weeks. A self assessment of shine and smoothness adds the consumer view.

Cleansing milks

The supplier allows up to 5% in lotions and cleansing milks. A light cleansing milk for combination skin with PoreAway removes makeup gently and leaves the skin less shiny, without the tight feel of strong foaming cleansers. Follow it with a toner and a mattifying cream for a complete routine.

Storage

Store in a cool, dark place in a tightly closed container. A certificate of analysis comes with every lot.