Kojic Dipalmitate

What Kojic Dipalmitate is

Kojic Dipalmitate, CAS 79725-98-7, is the dipalmitate ester of kojic acid: two chains of palmitic acid, a common fatty acid, are attached to the kojic acid molecule. The result is a white powder that dissolves in oils instead of water. On this page it is sold by the gram. Our product record lists it as soluble in oils. Developed as a more stable relative of Kojic Acid, it keeps the brightening theme while solving the color problem that often troubles water-soluble kojic acid products.

Properties

The ester resists discoloration from light and air much better than kojic acid and stays stable across a wider pH range. Because it is oil-soluble, it fits naturally into creams, lotions, anhydrous balms and makeup. Brands use it for products that help the complexion look brighter and more even and that help reduce the look of dark spots with regular use. It is gentle-feeling and leaves no residue when well dissolved.

Applications

Brightening day and night creams, body lotions, hand creams for the look of age spots, BB and CC creams, foundations, underarm and knee care creams and serums in oil or emulsion form are typical uses. It combines well with water-soluble tone ingredients such as Niacinamide, which go into the water phase of the same cream. More tone-focused ingredients are available in our cosmetic actives catalog.

How to use it

Kojic dipalmitate dissolves best in hot oils and polar esters. Add it to the oil phase with an ester such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate and heat to about 80 °C, stirring until the mixture is completely clear. Then emulsify with the hot water phase and cool with steady stirring. Keep the level within the range on the CoA; levels that are too high tend to recrystallize. The finished pH can be anywhere in the usual mild range.

Avoiding crystals

The most common problem with kojic dipalmitate is recrystallization, visible as fine sparkles or grains in the cream after some weeks. Melt it completely, use enough polar ester, keep the level moderate and cool the batch while stirring. Examine a thin film of the product under a magnifier after one and four weeks of storage. If crystals appear, raise the ester content or lower the active level.

Compatibility

Kojic Dipalmitate is compatible with esters, plant oils, fatty alcohols, emulsifiers, silicones and oil-soluble antioxidants. In the water phase of the same product, niacinamide, glycerin and hyaluronic acid work well. Because it is far more color-stable than kojic acid, it is easier to combine with fragrances and pigments in makeup products. In tinted products, add it with the oil phase before the pigments are dispersed, so that it is fully dissolved before grinding.

Characteristics

Form: white powder. INCI: Kojic Dipalmitate. CAS: 79725-98-7. Solubility per our record: oils. Processing: dissolve in the heated oil phase with a polar ester.

Original recipe: brightening day cream, 100 g

Phase A: distilled water 66.10 g, glycerin 4.00 g, niacinamide 3.00 g, xanthan gum 0.20 g. Phase B: glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate 5.00 g, cetearyl alcohol 2.00 g, isopropyl myristate 6.00 g, caprylic/capric triglyceride 6.00 g, squalane 3.00 g, Kojic Dipalmitate 1.00 g. Heat B to about 80 °C until clear, heat A to 75 °C, emulsify and cool while stirring. Phase C below 40 °C: panthenol 1.00 g, tocopherol 0.50 g, preservative 1.00 g, fragrance 0.20 g, water 1.00 g. Adjust pH to about 5.5.

Record the lot number in your batch log so every production run can be traced back to its certificate of analysis. Retain a small sample of each lot for at least the shelf life of the finished product, since it makes later quality questions much easier to answer.

Storage

Keep the powder sealed in a cool, dry place away from light. Close the container right after use. Ships from Florida in gram packs.